Waves are a primary force behind sand movement on beaches. When waves break in shallow water, they create turbulence and currents that carry sand particles. This process, known as longshore drift, is responsible for the transportation of sand along the coastline.
Here's how it works:
- Wave Action: Waves approaching the shore at an angle create a current that runs parallel to the shoreline.
- Sand Transport: This current picks up sand particles and moves them along the beach.
- Longshore Drift: The continuous movement of sand along the coast is called longshore drift.
Other factors that influence sand movement:
- Tides: Tides can also contribute to sand movement, as they create currents that can transport sand.
- Wind: Wind can also affect sand movement, especially when it blows across the beach, creating waves and currents.
- Beach Slope: The slope of the beach influences how waves break and how much sand is transported. Steeper beaches tend to have stronger currents, which can move more sand.
Examples:
- Sand dunes are formed over time as wind carries sand inland.
- Coastal erosion occurs when waves erode the shoreline, transporting sand away.
Conclusion:
Waves, along with other forces like tides and wind, are responsible for moving sand along beaches, shaping coastlines, and creating unique beach features.
