Yes, you should use a rust converter on your car when you have sound metal with surface rust present.
When is Using a Rust Converter Appropriate?
Based on the provided information, using a rust converter is specifically appropriate:
- When you have sound metal, but with surface rust still evident.
- The underlying metal itself must still be strong and intact.
- There is an orange/ginger appearance, which is evidence that some corrosion is present on the surface but hasn't eaten deeply into the material.
Rust converters chemically react with surface rust (iron oxide), converting it into a stable, paintable surface, typically a black compound like iron tannate. This process stops the progression of that specific layer of rust and prepares the area for priming and painting.
Practical Use on Your Car
Imagine you find a small spot of rust on your car door or fender. If you inspect it and confirm that the metal underneath feels solid and isn't perforated or significantly weakened, and you only see that reddish-orange dusting or light coating of rust, then a rust converter is a suitable step after initial cleaning and loose rust removal.
Here's a simple breakdown of the ideal scenario for use:
- Identify the rust: Look for the characteristic orange/ginger color.
- Assess the metal: Is the metal underneath firm and strong? Can you push on it without it flexing or crumbling?
- Remove loose rust: Brush away any flaky or powdery rust first.
- Apply converter: Follow the product instructions to apply the rust converter to the remaining surface rust.
Rust converters are not a substitute for welding or replacing metal that is severely rusted, perforated, or structurally compromised. They are best suited for treating surface-level corrosion on otherwise healthy panels.
