A paddle dyno is a coordination-based climbing move, frequently seen in competitions and increasingly in local climbing gyms. It involves a dynamic movement where climbers swing their body to generate momentum and reach a hold.
Understanding the Paddle Dyno
Here's a breakdown of what makes a paddle dyno:
- Dynamic Movement: Unlike static reaches, paddle dynos require a swing to propel the climber toward the target hold.
- Coordination: It is a coordination move, which requires good timing and technique.
- Momentum: The key to a successful paddle dyno is understanding and utilizing the direction of momentum.
- Competition & Gyms: While more prevalent in competition settings, paddle dynos are now being integrated into regular gym climbing routes.
Key Elements of a Paddle Dyno
To execute a paddle dyno effectively, consider these points:
- Direction of Swing:
- Determine the correct swing path for the move. As pointed out by @cadancehurt, understanding the direction between holds is crucial.
- Body Positioning:
- Position your body to maximize the effectiveness of the swing and reach the target hold.
- Loading Up:
- Properly loading before initiating the swing generates necessary momentum.
- Timing:
- Precise timing is essential to match the apex of the swing with the reach for the hold.
Tips for Practicing Paddle Dynos
- Start with Simple Movements: Practice smaller swings before attempting more complex dynos.
- Focus on Control: Maintain control during the movement to prevent injuries and improve precision.
- Visualize: Envision the movement and the path to the next hold before starting the dyno.
Example
Imagine a climber reaching for a hold slightly out of reach. Instead of statically pulling, they would swing their body to create momentum, propelling them towards the target hold. This swing, or "paddle," is what makes this movement a "paddle dyno."
In short, a paddle dyno is a dynamic, coordinated climbing move that uses momentum to reach holds that would otherwise be unreachable.
