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How to Grip Rock Climbing Holds?

Published in Climbing Techniques 3 mins read

Gripping rock climbing holds effectively is crucial for successful and safe climbing. The technique varies depending on the hold type, but generally involves using a secure and controlled grip.

Understanding Different Hold Types

Rock climbing holds come in various shapes and sizes, each requiring a different gripping technique. Understanding these variations is key to improving climbing performance.

Jugs

  • Description: Large, easy-to-grip holds that provide a solid grip.
  • Grip: The palm and fingers wrap fully around the jug. This is often one of the first holds that beginners learn.

Underclings

  • Description: Holds that are essentially upside-down jugs.
  • Grip: These are gripped by pulling upward on the bottom of the hold. They are often used for pulling into a position or moving onto another hold. As described in the video reference, underclings are essentially upside down jugs.

Slopers

  • Description: Smooth, rounded holds that offer very little to grip.
  • Grip: Requires a lot of friction and precise hand placement. Open-handed grip with a full or partial palm contact is used and the grip is actively engaged by applying body tension.

Pinches

  • Description: Holds designed to be pinched between the thumb and fingers.
  • Grip: Use your fingers and thumb to squeeze the hold.

Crimps

  • Description: Small edges or ledges that you can only grip with your fingertips.
  • Grip: The fingertips are placed on the hold with the knuckles bent. This hold requires strong fingers and is often used by advanced climbers.

General Gripping Techniques

Here's a table summarizing general gripping techniques for common hold types:

Hold Type Grip Technique
Jugs Palm and fingers wrapped fully around the hold
Underclings Pulling up from underneath the hold, similar to an upside down jug
Slopers Open hand grip with as much palm contact as possible to create friction
Pinches Thumb and fingers actively pinching the hold together
Crimps Fingertips only gripping the hold with bent knuckles and engaging body tension

Tips for Effective Gripping

  • Engage your Core: Keeping your core muscles engaged provides stability and prevents you from over-relying on your arms.
  • Adjust Grip Strength: Apply only the necessary amount of force to maintain grip. Over-gripping can lead to fatigue and injury.
  • Use your Feet: Your feet are vital for keeping your body stable and minimizing the amount of effort your arms need to exert.
  • Vary Grip Positions: Adjust your hand placement on holds to find the most secure and energy-efficient position.
  • Practice Regularly: Consistent practice helps develop the necessary strength and technique for gripping a variety of holds.

By understanding different hold types and implementing these gripping techniques, climbers can improve their performance and overall climbing experience.

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