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What is Double Dyno?

Published in Climbing Techniques 3 mins read

A double dyno is the most extreme type of dyno in rock climbing, involving a powerful, two-handed jump from one set of holds to another.

Understanding Dynos

Before diving into the specifics of a double dyno, let's briefly define a standard dyno.

  • A dyno is a dynamic movement in climbing where a climber jumps or leaps to reach a hold that is otherwise out of reach. Instead of slowly and statically reaching for a hold, the climber uses momentum and power to move between holds.

What Makes a Double Dyno Unique?

A double dyno, in contrast, takes this dynamic movement to its extreme. Here's how it's different:

  • Two-Handed Jump: Unlike some dynos that involve a one-handed reach, a double dyno requires the climber to jump with both hands simultaneously.
  • Maximum Exertion: Double dynos are among the most physically demanding moves in climbing because they require a lot of power, coordination, and explosiveness.
  • Higher Risk: Due to the large jump and the need to coordinate both hands catching, double dynos often carry a higher risk of falling compared to other climbing moves.

Key Elements of a Double Dyno

Successfully executing a double dyno involves several key elements:

  • Powerful Push-Off: The climber must generate significant force from their legs and arms to propel themselves into the air.
  • Accurate Aim: Precise targeting is crucial because both hands must land securely on the target holds.
  • Body Control: The climber needs good core strength and body awareness to maintain balance during the jump.
  • Catching: The landing is just as important as the jump. Catching the hold properly with both hands is essential for completing the move.

Examples of Double Dynos

  • Double dynos are often seen in challenging bouldering problems or on specific routes, requiring a large gap to be bridged between holds.
  • They can vary in difficulty based on the distance, hold types, and the angle of the climbing wall.

Double Dyno Summary

Feature Description
Type The most extreme type of dyno
Action A jump with both hands simultaneously
Difficulty Highly demanding, requires great strength, coordination, and timing
Risk Higher than other moves due to the explosive nature of the jump

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