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How to Achieve the "Russian Lips" Look

Published in Cosmetic Procedures 2 mins read

The "Russian lips" look is achieved through a specific lip filler injection technique. It emphasizes a fuller, more elevated upper lip, creating a heart-shaped appearance, without significant outward projection.

The Technique: Retrograde Tenting

The key to the Russian lip technique is the retrograde tenting method. This involves using a very fine needle to inject filler vertically along the vermilion border (the border between your lip and skin). This precise placement lifts and volumizes the lip from within, resulting in a more defined Cupid's bow and overall fuller look. Unlike other methods that add volume outwards, the Russian lip technique focuses on vertical lift and definition.

  • Vertical Injection: Filler is injected vertically, rather than horizontally, maximizing lift and minimizing outward projection.
  • Vermilion Border Focus: The injections are concentrated along the vermilion border, enhancing the shape and definition of the lips.
  • Retrograde Technique: The filler is injected in a way that pushes the tissue upwards, creating a more pronounced heart shape.

Unlike techniques that create a "duck-lip" appearance, this method aims for a more subtle, natural enhancement. The result is a sculpted, fuller lip with a pronounced Cupid's bow, often described as resembling the lips of a Russian nesting doll.

Example: Imagine a deflated balloon. Instead of inflating it evenly, you're strategically adding air to specific points to create a defined shape. This is analogous to the Russian lip technique, where filler strategically enhances specific areas to create the desired shape.

Schwarzburg’s method, as noted in the reference, exemplifies this technique: "Schwarzburg uses a tiny needle to inject the filler vertically along the vermilion border, employing the retrograde tenting technique...This technique focuses on enhancing the height and fullness of your lips without creating an outward projection."

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