To cut crown molding with a miter saw, you typically position the molding upside down and backward against the saw's fence and base, simulating how it will sit on the wall and ceiling. The specific miter and bevel angle settings depend on the corner angle you are cutting.
For common 90-degree corners, follow these steps using your miter saw:
Setting Up Your Miter Saw for Crown Molding
Before making any cuts, ensure your miter saw is properly set up and the crown molding is positioned correctly.
- Position the Molding: Place the crown molding on the saw bed upside down, so the edge that will touch the ceiling rests against the saw's fence, and the edge that will touch the wall rests against the saw's base. The molding should be held firmly in this position throughout the cut.
- Set the Bevel Angle: Keep your miter saw's BEVEL ANGLE set to 0 degrees. This is crucial for standard cuts when the molding is positioned against the fence and base this way.
Cutting for 90-Degree Corners
As per the reference, to make cuts for a 90-degree corner:
- Adjust the Miter Angle: Adjust your miter saw's MITER ANGLE to 45 degrees.
- Verify the Angle: Use a speed square to double check that the 45-degree miter saw setting IS ACTUALLY 45 degrees, ensuring accuracy before cutting.
- Make the Cut: With the molding held firmly in the correct position (upside down and backward against the fence and base) and the bevel at 0 degrees and miter at 45 degrees, make your cut slowly and steadily.
Inside vs. Outside 90-Degree Corners
The 45-degree miter angle setting is used for both inside and outside 90-degree corners. The difference lies in which side of the corner the cut is made and the orientation of the molding relative to the blade.
- Inside Corner: The short point of the miter cut will be on the face of the molding (towards the room), and the long point will be hidden on the back against the wall/ceiling. For a standard saw, you typically set the miter to 45 degrees left for one piece and 45 degrees right for the mating piece.
- Outside Corner: The long point of the miter cut will be on the face of the molding (towards the room), and the short point will be on the back. You'll typically set the miter to 45 degrees right for one piece and 45 degrees left for the mating piece (the opposite of inside corners).
| Corner Type | Miter Angle | Bevel Angle | Molding Orientation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90° Inside Cut 1 | 45° Left | 0° | Upside Down/Backward |
| 90° Inside Cut 2 | 45° Right | 0° | Upside Down/Backward |
| 90° Outside Cut 1 | 45° Right | 0° | Upside Down/Backward |
| 90° Outside Cut 2 | 45° Left | 0° | Upside Down/Backward |
Note: The Left/Right miter setting depends on which piece you are cutting and your saw's direction.
Tips for Success
- Test Cuts: Always make test cuts on scrap pieces of molding to check your saw settings and ensure pieces fit together correctly before cutting your final pieces.
- Hold Firmly: Keep the molding pressed tightly against both the fence and the base of the saw throughout the cut. Any movement will result in an inaccurate angle.
- Sharp Blade: Use a sharp blade designed for fine woodworking to get clean cuts without tear-out.
- Support Long Pieces: Support long pieces of molding to prevent them from tipping or binding during the cut.
By correctly setting your miter saw's angles and positioning the crown molding properly against the fence and base, you can make accurate cuts for seamless corners.
