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Does it matter how you cut curly hair?

Published in Curly hair care 3 mins read

Yes, it absolutely matters how you cut curly hair. Cutting curly hair requires a distinct approach compared to cutting straight hair to achieve the best results, manage its unique texture, and ensure curls fall naturally.

Why the Cutting Method is Crucial for Curls

Unlike straight hair, which can often be cut uniformly in blunt lines, curly hair behaves differently due to its shape and texture. Cutting curls in the same way can lead to uneven lengths when dry, excessive frizz, and a lack of definition.

Based on expert insights:

  • Curly hair shouldn't be cut uniformly like straight hair.
  • Each curl needs to be cut individually. This method, often called "curl-by-curl" or "dry cutting," allows the stylist to see how each individual curl coil naturally lies and how it will spring up when cut.
  • Cutting when hair is dry is also easier to recognize the curls' spring factor (how much each curl will spring back into shape after it's been pulled down). Understanding the spring factor is vital for achieving balanced length and shape across the entire head.

Key Differences in Curly Hair Cutting Techniques

Understanding these differences is essential for both clients and stylists.

Cutting Straight Hair vs. Curly Hair

Feature Straight Hair Cutting Curly Hair Cutting
Primary Method Uniform cuts, blunt lines, wet cutting Individual curl cutting, often dry cutting
Goal Even length, sharp lines Shape enhancement, frizz reduction, definition
Consideration Density, desired style length Curl pattern, spring factor, hydration

Common Techniques for Curls

Stylists specializing in curly hair often use techniques like:

  • Dry Cutting: Cutting the hair in its natural, dry state allows the stylist to see the true shape and hang of the curls. This is particularly helpful for assessing the spring factor.
  • Curl-by-Curl Cutting: Isolating and cutting each curl individually ensures that layers and length are tailored to the specific curl pattern, preventing unevenness.
  • Layering: Strategic layering helps remove bulk, enhance shape, and encourage curl definition. The placement and angle of layers are crucial.

The Importance of the Spring Factor

The "spring factor" refers to how much a curl will shrink or bounce up after it's cut. This varies from person to person and even within different areas of the same head.

Recognizing the spring factor is easier when the hair is dry. Pulling a dry curl down and observing how much it recoils reveals how short it will be once cut. Ignoring this can result in hair being cut much shorter than intended in certain spots.

Finding a Curly Hair Specialist

Because the technique matters so much, many people with curly hair seek out stylists specifically trained in cutting curls. These professionals understand the nuances of different curl types (waves, loose curls, tight curls, coils) and how to cut them to optimize shape, volume, and health.

In summary, the method used to cut curly hair significantly impacts the final look, manageability, and health of the curls. Individual attention to each curl and consideration of its natural characteristics, like the spring factor, are paramount.

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