To effectively remove excess fabric from the back of a dress, you typically adjust the existing seams or darts to create a more fitted silhouette. This process involves careful pinning, marking, and stitching to reshape the garment precisely where the excess material is present.
Removing excess fabric from the back of a dress focuses on tailoring the garment to fit your body contours more closely. This often involves taking in the center back seam, side seams, or back darts, depending on where the excess material pools.
Understanding Where Excess Fabric Occurs
Before starting any alteration, identify the specific areas on the back of the dress that have too much fabric. Common areas include:
- Center Back: A general bagginess down the spine, often addressed by taking in the center back seam.
- Side Seams: Excess fabric around the waist or hips, which can be cinched in through the side seams.
- Shoulder Blades/Upper Back: Horizontal folds or baggy fabric in the upper back, possibly indicating a need to adjust shoulder seams or darting in the upper back.
- Back Darts: If the dress has darts, they might need to be deepened to remove fabric at the waist or bust line.
The Core Technique for Fabric Removal
Once you've identified the excess and marked your new desired fit, the physical removal of fabric at a seam involves a precise cutting and folding method. This technique helps to eliminate the unwanted width while maintaining a clean, professional finish.
To remove the excess fabric at a marked seam line:
- Cut the seam allowance to, but not through, the seam line. This critical step precisely trims the fabric down to your new, desired stitch line, effectively eliminating the excess width beyond this point.
- Now turn the top piece down to the bottom most line, so that the pieces overlap. This action involves folding the newly cut edge of the fabric (the "top piece") down and over the remaining fabric (the "bottom most line") to create an overlap. This overlap secures the reduced width and neatly conceals the trimmed edge. This folding and overlapping process is how the excess fabric is effectively removed and integrated into the new seam, resulting in a snugger fit.
Step-by-Step Guide to Altering the Dress Back
For a successful alteration, follow these steps:
1. Assess and Pin for Fit
- Try on the dress: Wear the dress inside out for easier pinning. If possible, have a friend help you.
- Identify areas of excess: Gently pinch the excess fabric at the seams (center back, side seams, or darts) until the dress fits smoothly.
- Pin along the new fit line: Place pins vertically along the seam line, marking the desired new fit. Start from an area that fits well and pin towards the area of excess. For darts, pin along the new, deeper dart line.
2. Mark the New Seam Line
- Carefully remove the dress: Keep the pins in place.
- Mark with chalk or fabric pen: Draw a clear line following your pins. This is your new seam line. Also, mark the original seam line for reference.
- Measure and equalize: Measure the pinned distance from the original seam to ensure a consistent alteration on both sides (if altering side or back seams).
3. Prepare for Stitching
- Carefully unpick the original seam: Unstitch the original seam stitches in the area you intend to alter. Unpick slightly beyond where your new seam will begin and end to allow for a smooth transition.
- Trim the original seam allowance (if necessary): If the original seam allowance is very wide and will create bulk, you might carefully trim it down before applying the core removal technique, leaving enough for your new seam.
4. Apply the Fabric Removal Technique
- Implement the precise cut: Following your new marked seam line, cut the seam allowance to, but not through, the seam line. This creates the exact edge for your reduced width.
- Create the overlap: Now turn the top piece down to the bottom most line, so that the pieces overlap. This method ensures the excess fabric is incorporated and removed, creating a neat, flatter seam. You might press this fold in place before stitching.
5. Stitch the New Seam
- Stitch along the marked line: Using a sewing machine, sew slowly and carefully along your new chalk line.
- Backstitch at beginning and end: Reinforce the start and end of your stitching.
- Ensure a smooth transition: Taper your new stitch line smoothly into the original seam line at both ends to avoid a bulky or abrupt transition.
6. Finish the Seam
- Trim excess seam allowance: After stitching, trim the excess fabric beyond your new seam line, leaving a consistent seam allowance (e.g., 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch), unless the previous step of turning the top piece down already managed the excess.
- Press the seam open or to one side: Pressing is crucial for a professional finish. Depending on the fabric and seam type, press the seam allowances open or to one side.
Common Areas for Excess Fabric Removal
Here’s a table summarizing common problem areas and their typical solutions:
| Problem Area | Typical Alteration Point | Specific Technique Application |
|---|---|---|
| Gapping at Center Back | Center Back Seam | Unpick center back seam, pin new line, then cut seam allowance to new line and turn one piece over the other for removal. |
| Baggy Waist/Hips | Side Seams or Back Darts | Unpick side seams or existing darts, pin new, tighter lines, then cut seam allowance to new line and overlap fabric for reduction. |
| Pooching at Lower Back | Center Back Seam or Darts | Similar to gapping; focus on precise marking at the curve of the lower back and apply the cutting/overlapping method. |
| Loose Upper Back | Shoulder Seams / Back Darts | May involve taking in shoulder seams or adding/deepening small darts at the upper back/shoulder blade area. |
Important Tips for Alteration Success
- Start small: It's easier to take in more fabric than to let it out. Take a conservative approach initially.
- Use sharp tools: Sharp scissors and needles make for cleaner cuts and stitches.
- Test on scrap fabric: If you're unsure about stitching, practice on a similar fabric first.
- Press as you go: Pressing after each major step (like stitching a new seam) helps to set the stitches and give a professional look.
- Consider fabric type: Delicate fabrics may require more careful handling and a finer needle.
By carefully following these steps and utilizing the precise fabric removal technique, you can successfully tailor the back of your dress for a perfect, flattering fit.
