Dyes are made from different plants through a process of extraction, typically involving a heat-dye bath, to release the coloring compounds and then fixing these compounds to fibers.
Here's a breakdown of the process:
1. Plant Selection and Preparation
- Identify Dye-Yielding Plants: Different plants yield different colors. Common examples include:
- Madder root (red)
- Indigo (blue)
- Marigolds (yellow/orange)
- Walnut hulls (brown)
- Harvesting and Processing: Harvest plant materials at the appropriate time for optimal color yield. Clean the plant material thoroughly and chop, crush, or grind it to increase surface area for better extraction.
2. Dye Extraction (Heat-Dye Bath)
This is the core process, and the exact method can vary:
- Mordanting (Optional but Recommended): A mordant is a substance that helps the dye bind to the fiber. This is often done before the dye bath. Common mordants include alum, iron, and tannin. Mordanting improves colorfastness (resistance to fading).
- Creating the Dye Bath:
- Place the prepared plant material in a large pot.
- Add water – typically enough to cover the plant material and allow the fiber to move freely. The ratio of plant material to water influences the dye concentration.
- Heat the mixture: Bring the water to a simmer (do not boil vigorously). The heat helps break down the plant cells and release the dye molecules into the water.
- Simmer for an extended period: The simmering time varies depending on the plant material, desired color intensity, and specific recipe, but can range from 1 to several hours. Stir occasionally.
- Straining the Dye: After simmering, strain the dye bath to remove the solid plant material. Use cheesecloth or a fine-mesh sieve. The remaining liquid is the dye.
3. Dyeing the Fiber
- Wetting the Fiber: Thoroughly wet the fibers (yarn, fabric, etc.) to ensure even dye absorption.
- Adding Fiber to Dye Bath: Gently submerge the pre-mordanted (if applicable) and wetted fiber into the dye bath.
- Heating and Simmering: Heat the dye bath with the fiber in it. Simmer gently for another extended period, typically 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the desired color intensity. Stir frequently to ensure even dyeing.
- Cooling and Rinsing: Allow the fiber to cool in the dye bath. This helps the dye to set. Then, rinse the fiber thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Washing: Gently wash the dyed fiber with a mild soap.
- Drying: Dry the fiber away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.
4. Factors Affecting Dye Color
- Plant type and variety: Different plants yield different colours and shades
- Water Quality: Minerals in the water can affect the dye color. Soft water is generally preferred.
- pH: The acidity or alkalinity of the dye bath can influence the color. Modifying the pH (e.g., with vinegar for acidity or washing soda for alkalinity) can shift the hue.
- Temperature: Too high heat can damage fibers or alter the dye color.
Example: Making Yellow Dye from Marigolds
- Harvest: Collect marigold flowers (preferably the petals).
- Mordant (Optional): Mordant the fiber with alum.
- Extraction: Simmer marigold petals in water for about an hour.
- Strain: Strain the dye bath.
- Dyeing: Simmer the fiber in the dye bath for about an hour.
- Rinse, Wash, Dry: Rinse thoroughly, wash gently, and dry.
