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Does White Tie Require Tails?

Published in Formal Dress Codes 2 mins read

Yes, white tie traditionally requires tails for men.

White tie is considered the most formal dress code. As the reference states, "For men, this traditionally means Tails suit, white waist coat, white formal shirt and of course a white bow tie and pocket hank- hence the name white tie!". This explicitly outlines the components of the male white tie ensemble, with the tails suit being a central element.

Understanding the White Tie Dress Code

The white tie dress code, also known as full evening dress, is reserved for the most prestigious events, such as state dinners, royal events, and certain formal balls. It represents the pinnacle of formality in Western attire.

Key Components for Men

For men, adhering to the white tie dress code involves specific items:

  • Tailcoat: A black or midnight blue wool tailcoat, which is short in the front and has two long tails at the back.
  • Trousers: Matching trousers with two satin or braid stripes down the outside of each leg. Suspenders (braces) are typically worn.
  • Shirt: A formal white shirt with a stiff bib front and a wing collar.
  • Waistcoat: A white low-cut marcella waistcoat.
  • Bow Tie: A white marcella bow tie. This is where the "white tie" name originates.
  • Shoes: Black patent leather opera pumps or formal black lace-up shoes.
  • Accessories: White pocket square (optional, though common), white gloves (optional, especially for dancing), and formal cufflinks and studs.

Why Tails Are Essential

The tailcoat is the defining garment of the male white tie ensemble. Its distinctive cut and formal fabric are synonymous with this dress code's extreme formality. Without the tailcoat, the attire would not meet the white tie standard and might instead fall into a different category like black tie (which requires a tuxedo jacket, not tails).

In summary, the requirement for a tails suit is a fundamental aspect of the traditional male white tie dress code, setting it apart as the most formal level of evening wear.

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