Wearing a tuxedo blazer correctly involves understanding its specific design features and pairing it with the appropriate formal wear components. It's a garment reserved for black tie and other formal events, requiring attention to detail regarding fit, accompanying pieces, and traditional sartorial rules.
Key elements like buttons and lapels are crucial in setting the tone and formality of a tuxedo, as highlighted in guides on formal wear [like this video from Generation Tux (0:09 - 1:24)]. These details distinguish a tuxedo blazer from a standard suit jacket and dictate the overall look.
Understanding the Tuxedo Blazer
A tuxedo blazer (or jacket) is the centerpiece of a black tie ensemble. It is typically made from black or midnight blue wool and features distinctive silk or satin lapels, often matching the fabric on the trouser stripe and bow tie.
Lapel Types
The lapels are a defining feature of a tuxedo blazer and heavily influence its formality and style. According to formal wear advice [from Generation Tux (0:09 - 1:24)], lapels set the tone from casual to formal.
- Notch Lapel: This is the standard lapel found on most suit jackets, featuring a triangular notch where the collar meets the lapel. While technically seen on some tuxedos, [the notch lapel is described as the most common and most versatile lapel type overall (0:09 - 1:24)]. For the most formal look, peak or shawl lapels are preferred for a tuxedo.
- Peak Lapel: Pointing upwards, these are a traditional and highly formal choice for tuxedos, widening the shoulders visually.
- Shawl Lapel: A smooth, rounded lapel without notches or peaks, offering a classic and elegant formal look.
Buttons
Tuxedo blazers typically feature fewer buttons than suit jackets. Most commonly, a tuxedo blazer has a single button closure. Double-breasted options may have two or three buttons used for fastening, but the single-button, single-breasted style is the most traditional and widely accepted for black tie. Buttons are noted alongside lapels as elements that set the tuxedo's tone [(0:09)]. The buttons are usually covered in the same silk or satin as the lapels.
How to Pair Your Tuxedo Blazer
Wearing a tuxedo blazer correctly is about combining it with the appropriate pieces:
- Trousers: Match the blazer's fabric and color. They should have a satin or silk stripe down the side and no belt loops (suspenders are traditionally worn).
- Shirt: A white, formal dress shirt is essential. Look for features like a piqué bib front or pleats, and French cuffs for cufflinks.
- Tie: A black bow tie made of silk satin or grosgrain, matching the lapel material. Avoid neckties for black tie.
- Shoes: Black patent leather oxfords are the classic choice. Highly polished black calfskin oxfords can also be acceptable.
- Socks: Black dress socks, typically silk or fine wool.
- Accessories:
- Cufflinks and Studs: Required for the French cuff shirt. Studs replace the visible buttons on the shirt front.
- Pocket Square: A white silk or linen pocket square is the traditional choice, often folded flat or with a subtle puff.
- Suspenders: Recommended for trousers without belt loops, ensuring a smooth line.
The Importance of Fit
Regardless of the style of lapels or buttons, the fit of the tuxedo blazer is paramount.
- Shoulders: The blazer's shoulders should lie flat and align with your natural shoulder line.
- Waist: The jacket should be slightly tapered at the waist for a clean silhouette, but not so tight that it pulls.
- Length: The hem should typically cover your seat.
- Sleeves: Sleeves should end where your shirt cuff begins, allowing about a quarter to half an inch of the shirt cuff to show.
Buttoning Rules
For a single-button tuxedo blazer, the rule is simple: button it when standing and unbutton it when sitting. For double-breasted styles, it's generally kept buttoned.
By paying attention to these details, from the choice of lapels and buttons to the correct accompanying pieces and ensuring a perfect fit, you can properly wear a tuxedo blazer for formal occasions.
