Hair highlights work by using a chemical process, typically involving hydrogen peroxide mixed with pigment, to lighten or change the color of specific strands of hair.
Here's a breakdown of the process:
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Selection of Strands: A stylist carefully selects thin strands of hair to be highlighted. This can be done using various techniques, such as foiling, balayage, or highlighting caps.
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Application of Lightening Agent: A mixture of hydrogen peroxide (the developer) and a lightening agent (usually ammonia or a derivative) is applied to the selected strands. The hydrogen peroxide opens the hair cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) allowing the lightening agent to penetrate.
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Oxidation and Lifting of Color: The lightening agent oxidizes the melanin (the pigment responsible for hair color) in the hair shaft. This process essentially lifts or removes the natural color from the hair. The strength of the hydrogen peroxide and the amount of time the mixture is left on the hair determine the degree of lightening.
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Adding Pigment (Toner or Dye): After the hair has been lightened to the desired level, a toner or dye is often applied. This is done for several reasons:
- Neutralizing unwanted tones: Lightening can sometimes leave the hair with brassy or yellow tones. Toners can neutralize these unwanted tones, creating a more balanced and natural-looking highlight.
- Adding desired color: The toner or dye can also be used to add a specific color to the highlights, such as a cool blonde or a warm caramel.
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Rinsing and Conditioning: Once the toner or dye has processed, the hair is thoroughly rinsed. Because the highlighting process can be damaging, a deep conditioner is often applied to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair.
Lowlights:
The same process can be used to create lowlights, which are strands of hair that are darker than the natural color. In this case, a dye with darker pigments is applied instead of a lightening agent.
Summary Table:
| Step | Description | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Strand Selection | Choosing specific strands of hair for highlighting. | Creates the highlighted effect; controls the overall look. |
| 2. Lightening Mixture | Application of hydrogen peroxide and lightening agent. | Opens the hair cuticle and oxidizes the melanin. |
| 3. Color Lifting | Removing natural pigment from the hair. | Achieves the desired level of lightness for the highlights. |
| 4. Toner/Dye | Application of a toner or dye to the lightened strands. | Neutralizes unwanted tones, adds desired color. |
| 5. Rinse and Condition | Rinsing out the chemicals and applying a deep conditioner. | Removes chemical residue and restores moisture and strength to the hair. |
