Using hair developer correctly is crucial for achieving your desired hair color results and maintaining hair health. Here's a step-by-step guide:
1. Preparation is Key
- Choose the Right Developer Volume: Different volumes lift color to different degrees.
- 10 Volume (3%): Deposits color or tones; minimal lift.
- 20 Volume (6%): Lifts 1-2 levels; covers gray.
- 30 Volume (9%): Lifts 2-3 levels.
- 40 Volume (12%): Lifts 3-4 levels; use with caution, can cause damage. Generally not recommended for at-home use.
- Gather Your Supplies: You'll need hair developer, hair color, a non-metallic mixing bowl, an applicator brush, gloves, an old towel, and a timer.
- Perform a Strand Test: Before applying the mixture to your entire head, test it on a small, hidden section of hair to check for allergic reactions and color results.
2. Mixing the Developer and Hair Color
- Follow the Instructions: Always refer to the hair color product's instructions for the recommended developer-to-color ratio. This is critical for achieving the intended shade and preventing damage.
- Use the Correct Ratio: Incorrect ratios can affect the color outcome and potentially damage your hair.
- Mix Thoroughly: In the non-metallic bowl, combine the hair color and developer. Mix until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
3. Application
- Protect Yourself and Your Surroundings: Wear gloves to protect your hands, and drape an old towel over your shoulders to protect your clothing.
- Apply Evenly: Using the applicator brush, apply the mixture to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Ensure all sections of your hair are evenly saturated. For virgin hair, apply to the mid-lengths and ends first, leaving the roots until the end.
- Work in Sections: Divide your hair into manageable sections to ensure complete and even coverage.
- Don't Apply to Scalp if Irritated: Avoid applying the mixture directly to your scalp if it is irritated or damaged.
4. Processing Time
- Adhere to the Recommended Time: Check the hair color instructions for the recommended processing time, typically between 20-45 minutes.
- Set a Timer: Use a timer to ensure you don't leave the mixture on for too long, which can damage your hair.
- Check Color Development: Periodically check the color development, but avoid opening the hair shaft too many times.
5. Rinsing and Aftercare
- Rinse Thoroughly: Once the processing time is up, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool or lukewarm water until the water runs clear.
- Shampoo and Condition: Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help preserve your new hair color and keep your hair healthy.
- Deep Condition: Consider using a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and prevent dryness, especially after using higher volume developers.
Important Considerations:
- Hair Porosity: Porous hair absorbs color faster, so you may need to adjust processing time accordingly.
- Hair Condition: Damaged hair may process color unevenly. Consider using a protein treatment before coloring.
- Patch Test: Perform a patch test 48 hours before coloring to check for allergic reactions.
By following these steps, you can safely and effectively use hair developer to achieve your desired hair color results.