Using hair shears, whether for cutting or thinning, requires precision and understanding of their specific purpose. Fundamentally, hair shears are specialized tools designed to cut hair cleanly without causing damage, unlike household scissors.
Understanding Different Types of Hair Shears
Before diving into techniques, it's essential to distinguish between the two main types of hair shears:
- Hair Cutting Shears (Straight Shears): These are your standard, sharp scissors used to cut hair, create layers, blunt cuts, and shape the hairstyle. They have two smooth, sharp blades.
- Hair Thinning Shears (Texturizing Shears): These shears have one smooth blade and one serrated or "notched" blade. They are designed to remove bulk and add texture without significantly altering the length or overall shape of the haircut.
| Feature | Hair Cutting Shears | Hair Thinning Shears |
|---|---|---|
| Blade Type | Two smooth, sharp blades | One smooth blade, one notched/serrated blade |
| Primary Use | Shaping, shortening, creating blunt cuts, layering | Removing bulk, adding texture, blending, softening lines |
| Effect | Changes length and shape | Reduces density without altering length or shape |
How to Use Hair Cutting Shears (Regular Scissors)
Proper use of cutting shears ensures a clean, even cut and avoids split ends.
Preparation
- Clean, Damp Hair: Hair should ideally be clean and slightly damp (unless dry cutting for specific styles like curls) for easier, more precise cuts.
- Sectioning: Divide hair into manageable sections using clips. This allows for systematic cutting and prevents missed spots.
- Tools: Besides shears, you'll need a comb, water spray bottle, and hair clips.
Basic Cutting Techniques
- Holding the Shears: Grip the shears with your ring finger through the larger handle (with the finger rest), and your thumb through the smaller handle. Your index and middle fingers rest on the shank. This grip provides stability and control.
- Blunt Cut:
- Comb a section of hair straight down.
- Hold the hair between your index and middle fingers, ensuring even tension.
- Cut straight across, just below your fingers. Use small, precise snips.
- Point Cutting:
- Comb a section of hair.
- Hold the hair out, away from the head.
- Hold your shears vertically or at an angle, and snip into the ends of the hair. This technique creates a softer line and adds texture.
- Layering:
- Work with vertical or horizontal sections, depending on the desired layer placement.
- Elevate the hair to a specific angle (e.g., 90 degrees for uniform layers) and cut. The higher the elevation, the shorter the layers will be at the top.
Tips for Success
- Sharp Shears are Key: Dull shears can bend, push, or damage hair, leading to split ends.
- Small Sections: Always work with small, manageable sections to maintain control and precision.
- Work Slowly: Take your time and make small cuts. You can always cut more hair, but you can't put it back!
- Stand Correctly: Maintain good posture to ensure an even cut, especially for longer hair.
How to Use Hair Thinning Shears
Thinning shears are a unique tool primarily used for reducing bulk and blending, not for shortening hair length. As noted in the reference, "Because of the notches. When you cut with these it's not going to change the basic shape or the length of your haircut." This is due to their design, where the notched blade only cuts a portion of the hair strands within the section.
Purpose of Thinning Shears
- Reduce Bulk: Ideal for thick, dense hair that feels heavy.
- Add Texture: Creates movement and lightness in the hair.
- Blend Layers: Softens harsh lines between different lengths.
- Soften Ends: Can be used to soften the very ends of a blunt cut.
When and Where to Use Thinning Shears
Thinning shears are most effective when used strategically:
- Mid-Shaft to Ends: Apply thinning shears from the mid-length down to the ends of the hair. Avoid using them too close to the roots, as this can create short, spiky hairs that stand up.
- Thick Areas: Focus on areas where the hair feels particularly dense.
- Specific Examples: As highlighted in the reference, you might use them on areas like the "bang area" to remove density and make bangs lie flatter or appear softer. They are also great for blending sides into the top on shorter haircuts.
- Blending Layers: After cutting layers, use thinning shears to smooth the transition between different lengths.
Techniques for Using Thinning Shears
- Section Hair: Just like with cutting shears, isolate the section of hair you want to thin.
- Hold Hair Away from Head: Comb the section of hair straight out from the head.
- One Snip Rule: Place the thinning shears into the section and close them only once. Opening and closing multiple times in the same spot will remove too much hair and create holes.
- Angle Matters:
- Vertical: Using shears vertically helps to remove weight and blend.
- Horizontal/Diagonal: Using them horizontally or diagonally can help create softer, more textured ends.
- Placement: Insert the shears a few inches away from the roots (at the mid-shaft) and work towards the ends. For softening ends, you can snip directly into the last inch or two.
Important Considerations for Thinning Shears
- Do Not Overdo It: It's easy to remove too much hair with thinning shears. Start with less and add more if needed. Over-thinning can lead to flyaways, frizzy appearance, or holes in the haircut.
- Dry or Damp: Thinning can be done on both dry and damp hair, depending on the desired effect and hair type. Dry hair gives a more accurate representation of how the hair will fall naturally.
- Even Distribution: Ensure you thin evenly across the desired area to avoid patchy results.
General Safety and Maintenance Tips for Hair Shears
- Keep Clean: After each use, wipe shears clean of hair and product residue.
- Store Properly: Store shears in a protective case to prevent damage to the blades.
- Regular Sharpening: Have your shears professionally sharpened regularly to maintain their cutting efficiency.
- Finger Inserts: Use the provided finger inserts for a comfortable and secure grip, which also helps prevent hand fatigue.
