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How do hair curls work?

Published in Hair Science 2 mins read

Hair curls are primarily determined by the shape of the hair follicle from which the hair grows. Here's a breakdown of how that works:

The Role of the Hair Follicle

  • Follicle Shape: The key factor in determining hair curliness is the shape of the hair follicle. A straight follicle produces straight hair, while a curved follicle produces curly hair. This is because the follicle shape influences how the proteins in the hair are distributed.
  • Protein Distribution: Hair is made of proteins. When the follicle is curved, it leads to an uneven distribution of these proteins as the hair grows. This unevenness results in the hair shaft curling as it emerges from the scalp.
  • Degree of Curliness: The more unevenly distributed the proteins are, the curlier the hair will be. This means that a slight curve in the follicle will produce a wavy texture, while a very curved follicle will result in tight curls.

Summary of Hair Curl Formation

Factor Straight Hair Curly Hair
Hair Follicle Shape Straight Curved
Protein Distribution Even Uneven
Result Hair grows straight out of the scalp. Hair curls as it grows out of the scalp.

Practical Insights

  • Genetics: The shape of your hair follicle is genetically determined. This means that your hair type is often inherited from your parents.
  • Chemical Treatments: Treatments such as perms and relaxers work by altering the protein structure in the hair. This can change the distribution of proteins and thus alter the natural curl pattern.
  • Environmental Factors: While environmental factors like humidity can impact the appearance of curls (making them frizzier), they don't change the fundamental shape of the hair follicle or alter the inherent curly or straight nature of the hair.

In conclusion, the shape of the hair follicle and the resulting distribution of proteins are the primary drivers of hair curl formation, meaning that a curved follicle leads to uneven protein distribution and the formation of curls.

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