Putting a raw hem on jeans is a popular way to give them a casual, lived-in look by simply cutting the bottom and letting the fabric edge fray.
What is a Raw Hem?
A raw hem, also known as a cut hem or unfinished hem, is created by cutting the bottom edge of the jean leg and leaving it unsewn. Over time, the denim fibers naturally fray, creating a distressed, casual finish. This contrasts with traditional hems, which involve folding and stitching the fabric edge to prevent fraying.
Steps for Creating a Raw Hem on Jeans
Creating a raw hem is a straightforward process, typically involving just cutting the denim to the desired length.
Method 1: Simple Cut and Fray
This is the most common method for achieving a classic raw hem.
- Try on the Jeans: Put on the jeans and determine the desired finished length. Mark this spot with chalk or a pin.
- Mark the Cut Line: Using a ruler, draw a straight line across the leg where you want to cut. Ensure the line is even and parallel to the original hem or floor.
- Cut the Denim: Using sharp fabric scissors, carefully cut along the marked line. For a slightly uneven or more organic look, you can cut freehand.
- Wash and Dry: Wash the jeans as you normally would. The agitation in the washing machine and dryer will encourage the cut edges to start fraying.
- Control Fraying (Optional): After washing, you can trim any excessively long or loose threads to control the amount of fraying. You can repeat the wash/dry cycle to increase fraying over time.
Tip: Denim tends to fray more easily when cut straight across the grain.
Method 2: Adding a Stay Stitch (Optional)
For a more controlled fray that doesn't go too high, you can add a line of stitching just above the cut line.
- Follow steps 1 and 2 from Method 1 (Try on, Mark).
- Add Stay Stitch: Using a sewing machine, sew a straight stitch line horizontally across the leg, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above your marked cut line. This stitch acts as a boundary for the fraying.
- Cut the Denim: Cut the denim along your marked line, which is below the stitch line.
- Wash and Dry: Wash and dry the jeans to encourage fraying up to the stitch line.
Understanding a Different Hemming Technique
While the steps above describe creating a raw hem, other methods exist for finishing jean bottoms. For instance, a common technique for shortening jeans involves cutting, folding, and pressing the fabric edge to create a clean, finished look that prevents fraying.
Based on a reference describing how to finish a hem:
- You would put on the jeans.
- Mark where you want the hem to be with a pin.
- Use a ruler to draw a straight line 1'' below the pin, parallel with the existing hem.
- Using a pair of sharp scissors, cut along the line you drew.
- Fold the new hem over 3/8'' and press it all around with an iron.
- Then fold it again over 1/2'' and press.
This folding and pressing method results in a neat, finished hem, which is a different style outcome compared to the unfinished, frayed edge of a raw hem.
Why Choose a Raw Hem?
Raw hems offer several benefits and stylistic points:
- Trendy Look: They provide a modern, edgy, and casual aesthetic.
- Easy DIY: It's one of the simplest ways to alter jean length at home.
- Versatility: Works well on various denim washes and styles, from skinny to bootcut.
- Cost-Effective: No need for professional tailoring.
Whether you prefer the simple cut-and-fray method or want more control with a stay stitch, achieving a raw hem is an accessible way to customize your denim.
