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What Makes White Gold Turn Gold?

Published in Jewelry Maintenance 3 mins read

White gold doesn't actually change color itself. The perceived shift from white to gold is caused by the wearing away of its outer plating, revealing the metal alloy underneath.

Understanding White Gold

Unlike pure gold, which is naturally yellow, white gold is an alloy. This means it's a mix of pure gold with other white metals like nickel, palladium, or silver. While these alloys make the gold appear whiter, they often retain a slight yellowish tint from the original gold.

To achieve the bright, cool white finish typically seen in white gold jewelry, the piece is usually coated with a thin layer of rhodium, a precious metal in the platinum family. Rhodium is exceptionally white, reflective, and durable.

The Real Reason for the Color Change

According to the reference provided:

"Technically, white gold does not change color. Instead, its rhodium plating may fade over time and reveal the alloy beneath which often has a yellow undertone. This causes many people to believe that their white gold jewelry has changed color."

So, the apparent "turning gold" is not the white gold changing color, but rather the loss of the rhodium plating that gives it its bright white appearance. As the rhodium layer wears thin due to everyday wear, friction, and contact with chemicals (like lotions, perfumes, or cleaning products), the underlying yellowish or grayish-white alloy becomes more visible.

Factors Affecting Rhodium Plating Lifespan

Several factors influence how quickly the rhodium plating wears off:

  • Frequency of Wear: Jewelry worn daily will lose its plating faster than pieces worn occasionally.
  • Activity Level: Rings and bracelets are more prone to wear than earrings or pendants.
  • Body Chemistry: Some people's skin acidity can accelerate the wear of plating.
  • Exposure to Chemicals: Harsh chemicals, cosmetics, and even saltwater can degrade the plating.
  • Initial Plating Thickness: A thicker initial rhodium layer will last longer.

Restoring White Gold's White Appearance

Fortunately, the process of restoring white gold's original look is straightforward. A jeweler can easily re-plate the item with a new layer of rhodium. This simple procedure makes the jewelry look bright white again, covering the underlying alloy.

Key Takeaways

Here's a quick summary of why white gold appears to turn gold:

What Happens Why it Happens Resulting Appearance Solution
Rhodium plating wears off Daily wear, chemicals, friction Yellowish tint becomes visible Re-plating (Rhodium)
White gold alloy is revealed The alloy often contains yellow gold Looks like it "turned gold" Restores bright white look

Understanding that it's the plating, not the gold itself, changing color helps manage expectations for white gold jewelry maintenance. Regular cleaning and occasional re-plating will keep your white gold looking its best.

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