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The Fabrication Method

Published in Jewelry Making 4 mins read

How Do Jewelers Make Gold Rings?

Jewelers employ various techniques to craft gold rings, with one fundamental method involving shaping and joining metal by hand.

One common way jewelers create gold rings is through a process called fabrication, which involves working directly with gold sheet or wire. This hands-on approach allows for intricate designs and custom pieces.

Here's a breakdown of the steps involved in making a gold ring using this technique, incorporating the details from the reference:

Step-by-Step Process

  1. Starting Material: To make a gold ring through this process, you begin with a sheet of gold metal. The thickness and width of the sheet are chosen based on the desired ring design.
  2. Measuring and Marking: Next, you measure and draw out the rectangle of gold that will form the ring's band. Precision is key here to ensure the correct length and width for the intended finger size.
  3. Cutting the Shape: The rectangle is then carefully cut through with a jeweler's saw and bench pin. The bench pin provides support and a stable cutting surface for the small blade of the saw.
  4. Forming the Band: Once cut, the flat strip of gold is hammered and bent into shape around a ring mandrel. A ring mandrel is a cone-shaped tool used to size and shape rings. The metal is gradually curved until the two ends meet.
  5. Preparing for Soldering: After forming the basic ring shape, the ends or joints are lined up. This joint must be perfectly flush and clean for successful soldering.
  6. Joining with Solder: With the joint aligned, you solder them together forming your solid ring. Solder, a gold alloy with a lower melting point, is placed at the joint and heated until it flows, creating a strong bond that permanently closes the ring shape.
  7. Finishing: After soldering, the ring undergoes further steps like filing, sanding, and polishing to remove excess solder, smooth the surface, and achieve a desired finish, resulting in a finished, solid gold ring.

Essential Tools for Fabrication

Creating a ring by fabrication requires specific tools:

  • Gold Sheet or Wire: The raw material.
  • Jeweler's Saw: A fine-bladed saw for cutting metal precisely.
  • Bench Pin: A wooden support that attaches to a workbench for sawing and filing.
  • Ring Mandrel: A conical or cylindrical tool for shaping and sizing rings.
  • Hammer: Used in conjunction with the mandrel to shape the metal.
  • Solder & Flux: Materials used to join metal pieces.
  • Torch: To heat the solder until it flows.
  • Files, Sandpaper, Polishing Tools: For shaping, smoothing, and finishing the ring.

Other Ring Making Methods

While fabrication is a core skill, jewelers also use other methods, such as:

  • Casting: Creating a wax model, embedding it in a mold, melting out the wax, and pouring molten gold into the cavity.
  • CAD/CAM: Designing the ring digitally using computer software, then using a machine (like a 3D printer or CNC mill) to create a wax model or even the metal ring directly.

Each method offers unique advantages in terms of design complexity, efficiency, and cost, but the hand-fabrication process described above remains a fundamental craft in jewelry making.

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