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How Do You Reshape an Adjustable Ring?

Published in Jewelry Repair 3 mins read

Reshaping an adjustable ring depends on the material and the nature of the bend, but often involves gentle tapping with a hammer and shaping tools.

The video reference provided emphasizes gentle tapping and care when reshaping, particularly noting the hollow nature of some ring shoulders which makes them vulnerable to damage. Here's a more detailed breakdown of the process:

Steps to Reshape an Adjustable Ring:

  1. Assess the Damage: Determine the extent and location of the bend or distortion. Is it a simple out-of-round shape, or is there a kink in the shank?

  2. Prepare Your Tools: You'll need:

    • A small jewelry hammer (nylon or rawhide mallets are gentler on softer metals)
    • A ring mandrel (a tapered steel rod used for shaping rings)
    • A soft cloth to protect the ring's surface.
    • Optional: Pliers with soft jaws to avoid scratching the ring.
  3. Gentle Shaping:

    • For Minor Bends (Out-of-Round): Place the ring on the ring mandrel at the appropriate size. Gently tap the area that is out of shape with the jewelry hammer, working your way around the ring. Regularly check the shape and fit on the mandrel.
    • For More Significant Bends: Use pliers with soft jaws to gently bend the ring back into shape. If the bend is stubborn, use the mandrel and hammer method described above. Work slowly and avoid sharp bends.
    • Hollow Shoulders: As the video mentions, be extra careful around hollow parts of the ring as they are easily dented or crushed. Avoid applying direct pressure to these areas.
  4. Fine Tuning: Once the ring is close to the desired shape, use the mandrel and hammer for fine adjustments. Polish the ring with a soft cloth to remove any marks from the tools.

Important Considerations:

  • Material: The type of metal the ring is made of will affect how easily it can be reshaped. Softer metals like silver and gold are more malleable than harder metals like stainless steel.
  • Hollow Rings: Be extremely careful when working with hollow rings, as they are easily damaged.
  • Patience: Reshaping a ring takes time and patience. Work slowly and avoid applying too much force, or you could damage the ring.
  • Professional Help: If you are not comfortable reshaping the ring yourself, or if the damage is severe, it is best to take it to a jeweler.

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