To sew on lace effectively, use a new 70 needle and sew with a 2.5 mm stitch length. If the lace is stretchy in places, opt for a narrow zigzag stitch to prevent threads from tearing when the garment is worn, typically with a width of 0.3 to 0.5 mm. Avoid adding buttons and buttonholes near the lace application.
Sewing lace requires attention to detail to ensure a smooth, durable finish. The key is using the right tools and settings for your specific lace and fabric.
Essential Supplies and Settings
Before you begin sewing, gather your materials and set up your sewing machine according to these guidelines:
- Needle: A new size 70 sewing machine needle is recommended. A fresh, sharp needle prevents snags in delicate lace.
- Thread: Use a thread that matches or complements your lace and fabric. Fine polyester or silk threads work well for delicate lace.
- Stitch Length: Set your machine to a stitch length of 2.5 mm. This length provides good stability without being too dense, which can distort the lace.
- Stitch Type:
- For non-stretchy lace, a straight stitch is suitable.
- For lace with stretch, a narrow zigzag stitch is crucial. This allows the seam to stretch with the fabric, preventing popped stitches or torn lace threads.
- Zigzag Width (for stretchy lace): If using a zigzag, set the width to a narrow range, typically between 0.3 to 0.5 mm. This is just enough width to allow flexibility without being visibly zigzagged on the finished product.
Recommended Machine Settings Summary
| Setting | Recommendation | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Needle Size | New 70 | Prevents snags |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 mm | Standard for stability |
| Stitch Type | Straight (non-stretchy) or Narrow Zigzag (stretchy) | Choose based on lace stretch |
| Zigzag Width | 0.3 - 0.5 mm (if using zigzag) | Provides stretch without bulk |
Sewing Process
Here are the general steps for sewing lace onto fabric:
- Prepare the Lace and Fabric:
- Pre-wash and press both your fabric and lace if possible, especially if they are intended for a garment that will be laundered.
- Decide on the placement of the lace. You can lay it directly on the fabric (appliqué), insert it into a seam, or use it as a trim.
- Secure the Lace:
- Pin the lace in place using fine, sharp pins. Place pins within the lace design where they won't be easily seen or damage delicate threads.
- For tricky areas or very delicate lace, consider using a temporary fabric adhesive spray or basting stitch to hold it securely before machine sewing.
- Machine Sew the Lace:
- Using your machine settings as recommended (new 70 needle, 2.5 mm stitch length, appropriate stitch type), carefully sew along the edge of the lace.
- Sew slowly and guide the fabric and lace smoothly. Avoid pulling or stretching, especially when using a straight stitch on non-stretchy lace.
- If using a narrow zigzag on stretchy lace, ensure the needle catches both the lace edge and the fabric underneath. The narrow width makes the stitch nearly invisible while providing necessary give.
Tips for Success
- Test on Scraps: Always test your stitch settings on scrap pieces of the same lace and fabric before sewing on your final project.
- Consider Stabilizer: For very fine lace or knit fabrics, a tear-away or wash-away stabilizer placed underneath the fabric can help prevent stretching and puckering during sewing.
- Pressing: Press carefully after sewing, using a low heat and a pressing cloth if needed, to avoid damaging the delicate lace fibers.
By following these steps and using the recommended needle size and stitch settings, you can achieve a professional and durable finish when sewing lace. Remember to avoid adding embellishments like buttons and buttonholes near the lace application.
