How to Sew Silk on a Machine
Sewing silk on a machine requires specific adjustments to ensure the delicate fabric is not damaged and the seams are smooth and secure. The key is using the right needle and stitch settings.
Working with silk can be rewarding, but its fine nature means you need to adapt your standard machine sewing techniques. Here are the core steps:
1. Choose the Correct Needle
Using a sharp, fine needle is paramount when sewing silk to avoid snags and skipped stitches.
- Finer Sizes: Use a finer sewing machine needle. Good sizes to try include 60/8, 70/10, and 80/12. These smaller sizes create smaller holes in the fabric.
- Microtex Needles: Try microtex needles. These needles have a very sharp, acute point specifically designed for piercing fine, tightly woven fabrics like silk cleanly.
- Note: While the reference mentions a "Between" needle for hand sewing silk, for machine sewing, focus on the fine machine needle options.
2. Select the Appropriate Stitch Type and Length
The stitch settings should be adjusted based on the silk's behavior and the garment's needs.
- Straight Stitch for Shifty Silks: For shifty silks that tend to slide around, sew with a shorter straight stitch length like 2mm. A shorter stitch helps maintain control over the fabric layers and prevents them from shifting excessively.
- Narrow Zig-Zag for Drapey/Bias-Cut Silks: If you are sewing a drapey or bias-cut garment where the seams need a little flexibility to stretch with the fabric (preventing threads from breaking), use a narrow zig zag. This allows the seam to accommodate movement.
3. Adjust Tension and Pressure (General Tips)
While not detailed in the specific reference provided, standard practice when sewing delicate fabrics like silk includes adjusting tension and presser foot pressure.
- Tension: Test the tension on a scrap of your silk fabric first. It should be balanced with no loops on either side.
- Presser Foot Pressure: Reducing the presser foot pressure can help the silk feed smoothly without stretching or distorting.
4. Handle the Fabric Carefully (General Tips)
Silk is prone to snags and can be slippery.
- Use sharp tools: Ensure your sewing machine needle is new and sharp. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for cutting fabric.
- Pinning: Use fine, sharp pins within the seam allowance, or consider using pattern weights and clips where possible to minimize pinholes.
Quick Reference Table
| Setting | Recommendation | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Machine Needle | Finer sizes (60/8, 70/10, 80/12), Microtex needles | Minimizes snags and holes |
| Straight Stitch | Shorter length (~2mm) | Controls shifty fabrics |
| Zig-Zag Stitch | Narrow | Allows seam stretch for bias/drapey cuts |
By applying these specific techniques for needle selection and stitch settings, you can successfully sew silk on your sewing machine, achieving neat and durable seams.
