Machine needles are sized using both metric and imperial systems. The numbers represent the needle's diameter, with smaller numbers indicating finer needles. A larger number means a thicker needle.
Understanding the Sizing System
- Metric System: This system uses millimeters (mm) to represent the needle diameter. For example, a 90 needle has a diameter of 0.9mm.
- Imperial System: This system uses a different numbering system, but the principle remains the same: smaller numbers represent finer needles. For instance, a size 10 needle corresponds to a 70 in the metric system, while a size 14 corresponds to a 90. A conversion chart is often helpful. (See examples below).
Examples of Needle Sizes and Their Uses
The appropriate needle size depends heavily on the fabric weight. Here are some examples:
- 60/8: Suitable for very fine fabrics like silk, lace, and lingerie.
- 70/10: Ideal for lightweight fabrics such as net and chiffon.
- 80/12: A common size used for general dressmaking.
- 90/14: Often used for medium-weight fabrics.
- 100/16 or 110/18: Suitable for heavier fabrics like denim.
- 120/19: Used for the thickest fabrics.
Several resources provide detailed conversion charts and recommendations based on fabric weight. For instance, the Sewing Directory provides a direct conversion from the imperial system (sizes 10, 11, 12, 14) to their metric equivalents (70, 75, 80, 90).
It is crucial to select the correct needle size to prevent damage to your fabric and ensure smooth sewing. Using too fine a needle on a heavy fabric will result in broken needles, while using too thick a needle on a fine fabric may cause holes and damage.
Needle Size Chart (Partial Example)
| Imperial Size | Metric Size | Approximate Diameter (mm) | Fabric Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 60 | 0.6 | Fine (silk, lace) |
| 10 | 70 | 0.7 | Lightweight (chiffon) |
| 12 | 80 | 0.8 | Medium (dressmaking) |
| 14 | 90 | 0.9 | Medium-weight |
| 16 | 100 | 1.0 | Heavy (denim) |
