When you see square waves in the ocean, it means that two swells are colliding at 90° to one another. This creates a grid-like pattern on the surface of the water.
Understanding Square Waves
Square waves, also known as cross-sea waves, are a fascinating but potentially dangerous natural phenomenon. They occur when wave systems generated by different weather patterns or distant storms cross paths at a perpendicular angle.
Based on the reference:
- Meaning: Two separate wave systems (swells) meet and interact, approaching from directions that are roughly ninety degrees apart.
- Visual: From a distance, the ocean surface appears crisscrossed with waves, forming distinct squares or grids. It looks quite striking and is often observed near coastlines where wave patterns can be complex due to landforms and differing wind directions.
Why Square Waves Are Dangerous
While they may look beautiful from a distance and can be appreciated as a natural spectacle, getting caught in square waves is highly risky.
According to the reference, getting caught swimming, surfing or sailing in square waves however is a different story altogether.
Here's why they pose a threat:
- Conflicting Forces: The intersecting wave patterns create chaotic and unpredictable water movement.
- Increased Wave Height: Where wave crests from both systems meet, the combined energy can result in unusually tall waves.
- Strong Rip Currents: The complex interaction of waves can generate powerful and unpredictable rip currents that can pull swimmers away from shore.
- Instability: The water surface is highly unstable, making it extremely difficult to swim, stay afloat, or control a boat or board.
Essentially, the energy from two different wave directions creates a turbulent environment where the usual patterns of wave motion are disrupted, leading to hazardous conditions for anyone in the water.
In summary, the visual appearance of square waves signifies a specific, perpendicular collision of swells. While interesting to observe from a safe vantage point, this phenomenon creates hazardous conditions in the water itself due to the unpredictable and turbulent nature of the intersecting waves.
