Sewing a blouse sleeve is a key step in garment construction, attaching the sleeve to the bodice armhole. While methods vary slightly depending on the pattern and desired finish, a common technique involves sewing the sleeve into the armhole while the garment is still relatively flat, before the side seams are fully closed.
Understanding the Basic Process
Successfully sewing a sleeve involves careful preparation and precise stitching to ensure a smooth, well-fitted result. Two primary methods exist: sewing "in the flat" (before side seams) and sewing "in the round" (after side seams). The method described in the reference aligns closely with sewing "in the flat."
Method: Sewing In the Flat (As Described in the Reference)
This method is often preferred by beginners as it allows easier manipulation of the fabric.
Step 1: Prepare Your Fabric Pieces
Before attaching the sleeve, ensure both the sleeve cap (the curved top edge of the sleeve) and the bodice armhole are properly prepared according to your pattern instructions. This may involve:
- Staystitching: Stitching a line just inside the seam allowance around the armhole to prevent it from stretching out of shape.
- Gathering or Easing: Creating slight gathers or easing stitches along the sleeve cap between notches to help the curved sleeve cap fit into the slightly smaller armhole.
- Finishing Edges: Finishing the raw edges of the armhole and sleeve seam allowance if desired before joining.
Step 2: Attach the Sleeve Head to the Armhole
This is where you join the upper edge of the sleeve to the arm opening of the bodice.
- Lay your bodice piece flat, right side up.
- Place the corresponding sleeve piece on top, right side down, aligning the raw edges of the armhole and sleeve cap.
- Align all pattern markings, such as notches, shoulder seams, and any points indicating the front or back of the sleeve and armhole.
- According to the reference, you will "match all of the markings." These markings are crucial for ensuring the sleeve hangs correctly.
- "Then stitch it along that edge." Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole along the seam line, typically using a standard straight stitch. Sew carefully around the curve, distributing any ease or gathers evenly.
Step 3: Sew the Side Seams
After the sleeve head is attached, you will close the garment.
- "Then you open everything up." Lay the combined bodice and sleeve piece flat.
- "Bring front sides together on your bodice. Side seam. And your sleeve. Side seam." Fold the fabric so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Align the raw edges of the side seam of the bodice and the corresponding side seam of the sleeve. Make sure the underarm seam where the sleeve joins the bodice is neatly aligned.
- Pin the bodice side seam and the sleeve side seam together from the hem of the bodice up to the underarm, and then from the underarm down to the cuff of the sleeve, creating one continuous line.
- Sew this entire length in one seam.
Step 4: Finish Your Seams
Press the completed seam towards the bodice or open, depending on the fabric and pattern instruction. Finish the raw edges of the seam allowance using a serger, zigzag stitch, or another preferred method to prevent fraying.
Method: Sewing In the Round (Alternative)
In contrast, sewing "in the round" involves sewing the bodice side seams and the sleeve side seams first, creating tubes for both the bodice and each sleeve. Then, you insert the sleeve tube into the bodice armhole tube (right sides together), match the markings, and sew the sleeve head to the armhole in a circular motion.
Tips for a Professional Finish
- Pressing is Key: Pressing each seam as you sew helps meld the stitches and create a smoother look.
- Check Fit: Pin the sleeve in place and try on the bodice before sewing permanently to check the fit and hang of the sleeve.
- Ease vs. Gathers: Understand if your pattern calls for easing (subtly fitting a larger edge to a smaller one without visible puckers) or gathering (creating soft folds).
By following these steps, particularly aligning markings and sewing the side seams after attaching the sleeve head as described in the reference, you can effectively sew a sleeve onto your blouse.
