Sewing elastic on a pant hem involves creating a small channel, or casing, for the elastic to run through, which then gathers the fabric for a comfortable and flexible fit. This method is perfect for adding stretch to children's clothing, loungewear, or athletic pants.
Materials You'll Need
Before you begin, gather the following essential sewing supplies:
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Pants to be hemmed | Your project garment |
| 1/4" elastic | The gathering element for the hem |
| Sewing machine | For stitching the casing and elastic |
| Matching thread | To blend seamlessly with your fabric |
| Fabric scissors | For precise cutting |
| Measuring tape or ruler | For accurate measurements |
| Fabric chalk or marker | To mark stitching lines |
| Safety pins (2) | To thread the elastic through the casing |
| Iron and ironing board | For pressing seams for a crisp finish |
Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Elastic on a Pant Hem
This process creates a neat, elasticized hem using a casing method.
1. Preparing Your Hem (Creating the Casing)
The first step is to prepare the raw edge of your pant hem to form a channel for the elastic. This is crucial for a clean and functional finish.
- Turn under casing a 1/4": Begin by turning the raw edge of the pant hem up towards the wrong side of the fabric by 1/4 inch. Press this fold neatly with an iron. This creates a clean initial edge and prevents fraying inside the casing.
- Then turn up 3/8": Following the first fold, turn the hem up again, this time by 3/8 inch. Press this second fold firmly. This creates the main channel for your elastic.
- Stitch around the leg, leaving an opening for the elastic: Using your sewing machine, stitch close to the top folded edge of your 3/8-inch hem. Stitch all the way around the leg, but leave a small opening (about 1 to 1.5 inches) unstitched. This opening is where you will insert the elastic. Ensure your stitches are straight and even for a professional look.
2. Inserting the Elastic
Once your casing is sewn, it's time to thread the elastic through.
- Measure your elastic: A good starting point for elastic length is your ankle circumference minus 1-2 inches, or about 80-90% of the hem's circumference, depending on how much gather you desire. It's often best to test the length by wrapping it around the wearer's ankle to find a comfortable fit.
- Pull 1/4" elastic through this casing with a safety pin on each end of the elastic: Attach one safety pin to one end of your measured 1/4" elastic. This pin will act as a guide to push the elastic through the casing. Secure the other safety pin to the other end of the elastic. This second pin will prevent that end from accidentally slipping into the casing as you pull.
- Insert the guiding safety pin into the opening you left in the casing. Carefully push and wiggle the safety pin through the channel, gathering the fabric as you go, until it emerges from the other side of the opening. Be careful not to twist the elastic inside the casing.
3. Securing the Elastic and Finishing
This is the final stage where you secure the elastic and close the hem.
- Join the elastic ends: Once both ends of the elastic are pulled out from the casing opening, overlap them by about 1/2 to 1 inch. Securely stitch these two ends together using a strong zigzag stitch. This forms a continuous loop of elastic inside your casing.
- Secure each end by topstitching at either end: Gently pull the fabric around the hem, allowing the joined elastic to disappear inside the casing. Distribute the gathers evenly around the entire hem circumference. Now, topstitch the small opening in the casing closed. Stitch neatly from one side of the opening to the other, securing the hem completely.
- Remove safety pins: Once the casing is fully sewn shut and the elastic is secured, remove both safety pins.
4. Repeating for the Second Leg
- Repeat with other leg: Apply the exact same steps to the second pant leg to ensure both hems are consistent and finished correctly. Take your time to match the elastic length and gathering on both legs.
Tips for a Professional Finish
- Pre-wash your fabric: Always pre-wash and dry your fabric before sewing to account for any shrinkage.
- Choose the right elastic: 1/4" braided or knit elastic is typically good for pant hems. Non-roll elastic is excellent for preventing twisting inside the casing.
- Press as you go: Pressing your folds before stitching helps create crisp, straight seams and a more professional final product.
- Test fit: Before stitching the elastic ends together, pin them and have the wearer try on the pants to ensure the elastic length provides comfortable gathering.
- Distribute gathers: After securing the elastic, gently pull the hem fabric to evenly distribute the gathers around the entire circumference.
By following these steps, you can successfully sew elastic onto your pant hems, creating a comfortable and neatly finished garment.
