Mixing sewing patterns allows you to combine elements from different designs to create unique garments. The core process relies on careful measurement and adjustment to ensure different pattern pieces fit together correctly.
The Basics of Mixing Patterns
To effectively mix sewing patterns, you primarily need to measure and adjust. This means comparing the relevant pattern pieces you want to swap and making alterations so they align properly.
Measuring for Compatibility
When incorporating a piece from one pattern into another, like using a sleeve from pattern A on a bodice from pattern B, you must compare the corresponding seam lines. As the reference states:
- You just need to measure and adjust.
- For example, two different sleeves. Measure the original sleeve and then the new one you want to use.
- Be sure to measure on the sewing line, not the exterior edge of the pattern.
Measuring on the sewing line is crucial because this is where the fabric will be stitched together. The seam allowance (the distance from the sewing line to the raw edge) can vary between patterns, so measuring the outer edge would give you an inaccurate comparison of the actual seam lengths.
What to Measure
When mixing components, measure the lengths of the seams that will connect:
- Sleeves and Armscye: Measure the length of the sleeve cap curve on the sewing line. Compare this to the length of the armscye curve on the bodice (also on the sewing line). These lengths need to match for the sleeve to fit into the armscye.
- Bodice and Skirt/Pants: Measure the waistline seam on the bodice and the waistline seam on the skirt or pants. These lengths must be equal.
- Collars/Neckbands and Neckline: Measure the length of the neckline on the bodice and compare it to the length of the collar or neckband edge that attaches to the neckline.
Making Adjustments
If your measurements don't match, you'll need to adjust one or both pattern pieces. Common adjustments include:
- For Sleeves/Armscye: If the sleeve cap is too long for the armscye, you might need to flatten the cap slightly. If it's too short, you might need to raise the cap or slightly gather the armscye edge of the bodice.
- For Waistlines: If the waistline is too big or too small on one piece compared to the other, you can adjust the side seams of either the bodice or the skirt/pants to match the desired measurement.
- For Necklines/Collars: Adjust the length of the collar or neckband to fit the neckline measurement.
Always make adjustments gradually and re-measure as you go to ensure accuracy. It's often helpful to make a test garment (a toile or muslin) to check the fit before cutting into your final fabric.
By focusing on comparing and matching the sewing line measurements of the joining seams, you can successfully combine elements from different patterns to create a custom design.
