To follow a sewing pattern successfully, you need to understand how to read and interpret the markings, instructions, and diagrams provided.
Understanding Your Sewing Pattern
Following a sewing pattern breaks down a complex garment into manageable steps. Each pattern is a guide designed to help you cut fabric correctly and assemble the pieces in the right order.
Essential First Steps
Begin by carefully examining the pattern envelope and the pattern tissue itself.
- Identify Pattern Pieces: Start by looking at the lettered line drawings included with your pattern. These illustrations show each individual piece you will need to cut from your fabric to create the garment. Find the corresponding tissue pattern pieces.
- Read Piece Descriptions: Below the line drawings, find the descriptions of each pattern piece. These descriptions often indicate what each piece represents (e.g., "Front Bodice," "Sleeve," "Collar") and sometimes mention fabric requirements or special notes for that piece.
- Review General Instructions: Before you start cutting or sewing, go over the general sewing instructions provided with the pattern. This helps you understand the overall process, required notions, and any special techniques needed, so you don't make errors later in the process.
Interpreting Pattern Markings
Sewing pattern pieces are covered in various symbols and lines. Understanding these markings is crucial for cutting accurately and assembling correctly.
- Grainline: Usually a long line with arrows at both ends. This line must be aligned parallel to the selvedge (finished edge) of your fabric when laying out pattern pieces.
- Notches: Small diamond or triangle shapes along the edge of the pattern piece. These are match points to help you align pieces correctly when sewing them together. Multiple notches often indicate the back of a piece.
- Dots or Circles: These are specific placement points for things like darts, pockets, buttonholes, or zipper stops.
- Fold Line: Indicates that the pattern piece edge should be placed along the folded edge of the fabric.
- Cutting Line: The outer solid line you cut along.
- Stitching Line: Often a dashed line, indicating where you will sew (usually 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm inside the cutting line, unless otherwise specified).
Here's a simple look at common marking types:
| Marking Type | Appearance | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Grainline | Line with arrows | Align parallel to fabric selvedge |
| Notches | Diamond or triangle | Match points for joining pieces |
| Dots/Circles | Small circles or dots | Placement for details (darts, pockets, etc.) |
| Fold Line | Line with curved arrow | Place on fabric fold |
| Cutting Line | Solid outer line | Where you cut the fabric |
| Stitching Line | Dashed line | Where you sew |
Cutting Your Fabric
Following the cutting layout diagram provided with the pattern is essential.
- Lay your fabric out according to the diagram (folded or single layer).
- Place pattern pieces on the fabric, ensuring grainlines are perfectly parallel to the selvedge using a ruler or measuring tape.
- Pin the pattern pieces securely to the fabric.
- Carefully cut along the cutting lines. Clip or snip notches outward away from the pattern piece edge (this makes them easy to see later). Mark dots or other interior markings onto the fabric using tailors' chalk, fabric pens, or thread tracing.
Following Sewing Instructions
The pattern guide includes step-by-step instructions, often accompanied by diagrams.
- Read each step thoroughly before performing it.
- Look at the corresponding diagram to visualize the action.
- Follow the steps sequentially as they are written.
- Pay attention to seam allowances indicated in the instructions.
Tips for Success
- Read Everything First: Before touching fabric or scissors, read the entire pattern guide from start to finish, including the envelope information (fabric suggestions, yardage, sizing).
- Identify Your Size: Use the pattern's body measurement chart to determine your correct size, rather than relying on ready-to-wear sizing.
- Make a Muslin (Optional but Recommended): For complex garments or if using expensive fabric, sew a practice version (muslin) in inexpensive fabric first to check the fit and construction process.
- Transfer All Markings: Don't skip transferring notches, dots, and other markings from the pattern tissue to your fabric. They are vital guides during assembly.
- Stay Organized: Keep your cut pieces organized. Label them if necessary.
Following a sewing pattern requires patience and attention to detail, but it is a rewarding process that allows you to create custom garments.
