French bias binding is a method used to finish the edges of a garment with a bias strip of fabric, providing a neat and durable finish often seen in fine sewing.
Understanding French Bias Binding
Often referred to simply as "French Binding," this technique utilizes a strip of fabric cut on the bias (diagonally across the grain). Cutting on the bias gives the fabric strip flexibility, allowing it to conform smoothly to curved edges, which is essential for many garment finishes.
The primary purpose of French bias binding is to enclose the raw edge of the fabric within the folded bias strip, creating a clean look on both the right and wrong sides of the garment edge. It's a popular choice for necklines, armholes, and hemlines, particularly on lightweight or sheer fabrics where a single-layer binding might show through or fray easily.
How French Bias Binding Works
The process involves a specific way of folding and stitching the bias strip. Based on the method, it entails:
- Preparation: The bias strip is prepared by folding it in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together, aligning the long raw edges.
- Attachment: This folded strip is then sewn to the raw edge of the garment. Typically, it's sewn with the raw edges (of the garment and the folded strip) aligned.
- Turning: After sewing, the entire binding is turned to the wrong side of the garment.
- Securing: Finally, the folded edge of the binding is secured in place. This can be done either by machine stitching along the folded edge on the wrong side or by hand stitching (such as a blind stitch) for an invisible finish on the right side.
This double-layer approach of the folded bias strip effectively encases the garment's raw edge, preventing fraying and adding a professional finish.
Key Steps Summarized
- Fold bias strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides together).
- Align the folded strip's raw edge with the garment's raw edge.
- Sew the strip to the garment.
- Turn the binding to the wrong side of the garment.
- Secure the folded edge of the binding (machine or hand).
