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How do you use a hem stitch?

Published in Sewing Techniques 3 mins read

The hem stitch is used to secure a folded hem to the main fabric, creating a clean, finished edge. Here's how it's done:

Steps to Execute a Hem Stitch

  1. Prepare the Hem:

    • Fold your fabric to create the hem and press it with an iron.

  2. Starting the Stitch:

    • Insert the needle through the back of the folded hem, coming out right at the edge of the fold. This hides the knot and starting point.

  3. Making the Stitch:

    • Take a small, straight stitch into the main fabric just below the edge of the hem.
    • Now, bring the needle back up through the folded hem at a point directly above the end of the previous stitch in the main fabric. This should be a small bite into the fold as described in the provided YouTube video, "Learn to Hand Sew: Hem Stitch".

    "Taking an equally small bite out of the fold. Itself."

  4. Continue the Pattern:

    • Repeat the process by taking another stitch into the main fabric and then bringing the needle up into the hem again. Each stitch should be of similar size and evenly spaced to ensure a secure and tidy hem.

  5. Tension Control:

    • As mentioned in the video, the tension of the thread is crucial. Make sure the tension is not too tight or too loose. The stitches should hold the hem firmly in place, but not cause puckering or looseness.

    "...always remember to monitor your tension to be sure that the hem holds."

Key Points for a Successful Hem Stitch:

  • Stitch Size: Stitches do not need to be super small for most projects. The focus should be on neatness and even tension.
  • Thread Matching: Use thread that matches the color of your fabric for an invisible finish.
  • Even Spacing: Keep your stitches evenly spaced and consistent to achieve a professional look.

Hem Stitch in Detail

Step Description
1. Prepare the hem Fold the fabric to create the hem and press it.
2. Start the stitch Bring the needle up through the fold edge hiding the knot.
3. First Main Fabric Stitch Take a tiny stitch into the main fabric just below the hem fold.
4. Second Fold Stitch Bring the needle back up through a small bite of the hem edge directly above the previous stitch.
5. Repeat Repeat steps 3 and 4 to continue the hem stitch around the edge.
6. Monitor Tension Keep an eye on your tension to maintain a smooth finish on the fabric.

By following these steps, you can successfully use a hem stitch for a variety of sewing projects.

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