Sewing a neck opening typically involves attaching a binding or facing to create a clean and durable edge. Here's a general approach:
Steps to Sew a Neck Binding:
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Prepare the Shoulders: Ensure your shoulder seams are sewn and finished before you start working on the neck opening. This provides a stable foundation.
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Cut the Binding: Determine the length of binding needed by measuring the neck opening circumference. Add seam allowance (e.g., 1/2 inch) for joining the binding ends. The width of the binding will depend on your desired finished look; typically, twice the desired visible width plus seam allowances. For example, if you want a 1/4 inch binding, and are using 1/4 inch seam allowance, cut the binding 1 1/2 inches wide (1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 1 1/2"). Bias binding (cut at a 45-degree angle to the fabric's grain) is often preferred for curved necklines as it stretches more easily.
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Join the Binding Ends: Fold the binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. This helps in creating a neat fold and accurate stitching. Open the fold and, with right sides together, sew the short ends of the binding together, forming a loop. Press the seam open or to one side. Refold along the original crease, wrong sides together.
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Pin the Binding:
- Open the shirt so it's flat, with the neck opening facing up.
- Pin the raw edge of the binding to the right side of the neck opening, matching the binding seam to the center back of the neckline.
- Space the rest of the pins evenly, gently stretching the binding if necessary to fit the curve of the neckline. You can quarter both the binding and the neckline to help with even placement.
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Sew the Binding to the Neckline: Stitch the binding to the neckline, using the seam allowance you determined earlier (e.g., 1/4 inch). Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.
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Finish the Seam: Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Grade the seam allowance (trim the neckline seam allowance closer to the stitching line than the binding seam allowance) to further reduce bulk. Understitch the binding to the seam allowance: Stitch through the binding close to the seam line, catching the seam allowance underneath. This helps the binding roll to the inside.
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Turn and Press: Turn the binding to the inside of the garment, encasing the raw edge. Press the folded edge of the binding neatly.
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Secure the Binding: You can secure the binding in a few ways:
- Topstitching: Stitch close to the folded edge on the right side of the garment.
- Hand stitching: Blind stitch the binding in place on the inside of the garment for an invisible finish.
Additional Considerations:
- Fabric Choice: Use a fabric for the binding that complements or matches the main garment fabric. Knits work well for knit garments, and woven fabrics can be used for woven garments.
- Interfacing: For delicate or stretchy fabrics, you might consider using fusible interfacing on the neckline to stabilize it before attaching the binding.
- Practice: Before working on your final garment, practice sewing the neck binding on scraps of fabric.
