Sewing bias binding onto a dress edge creates a clean finish, especially on curves and necklines, using fabric cut on the bias (diagonally across the grain) for flexibility.
Adding bias binding is a two-step process that effectively encloses a raw fabric edge, providing durability and a professional look. Bias binding's inherent stretchiness allows it to smoothly follow curved edges, unlike fabric cut on the straight or cross grain.
Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Bias Binding
Bias binding can be applied in several ways (single fold, double fold, visible, hidden), but a common method for finishing dress edges involves sewing one edge, folding, and then stitching again.
Step 1: Attaching the First Pass
- Align: Place the raw edge of your bias binding along the raw edge of the dress fabric (e.g., neckline, armhole).
- For a hidden binding finish, place the right side of the binding against the wrong side of the fabric.
- For a visible binding finish, place the right side of the binding against the right side of the fabric. (The hidden finish is more common for necklines/armholes).
- Sew: Stitch along the first fold line of the bias binding (usually 1/4" or 5/8" from the raw edge), using the seam allowance recommended for your binding or pattern. This joins the binding to the fabric edge.
- Trim: If necessary, trim the seam allowance of the dress fabric to reduce bulk, especially on curves.
Step 2: Folding and Securing the Binding
- Press: Press the seam allowance towards the bias binding.
- Fold: Wrap the bias binding around the raw edge you just sewed. The binding should fold over the seam allowance and the fabric edge to the opposite side of the dress fabric.
- Pin/Clip: Pin or clip the folded edge of the bias binding in place, ensuring it fully covers the raw edge on the opposite side.
- Stitch: Sew the binding down from the side where you originally attached it. Stitching directly into the folded crease line is key here. Sewing very close to the folded edge on the top will catch the binding on the underside, securing it neatly. As demonstrated in the reference, stitching precisely allows the bias binding to curve easily around details like a keyhole or neckline.
- Press: Give the finished binding a final press for a crisp finish.
By following these steps and stitching carefully into the folded edge, you can achieve a smooth, professional finish on even the most challenging curves of a dress.
