Sewing over bulky denim seams, where multiple layers of fabric converge, can be challenging due to the thickness and rigidity of the material. The key is to level your presser foot and prepare your sewing machine to handle the extra bulk, ensuring smooth stitching without skipped stitches or needle breakage.
Overcoming Bulk: The Presser Foot Leveling Trick
One of the most effective ways to sew smoothly over thick denim seams is to ensure your presser foot remains level as it transitions from a flat surface to the elevated seam and back down. This prevents the foot from tilting and losing contact with the fabric, which often leads to skipped stitches or fabric jamming.
According to a helpful technique demonstrated in a sewing video, many sewing machines have a small button or lever, often black and located on the side of the presser foot lever, specifically designed for this purpose. Here's how to use it:
- Approach the Seam: Sew slowly until your presser foot reaches the start of the bulky denim seam.
- Engage the Button: As the front of your presser foot is elevated by the seam, take that little button (or presser foot leveling button) and hold it down.
- Lower the Foot: While holding the button, bring the presser foot down onto the seam. The button will help the foot stay level and engaged with the fabric.
- Begin Stitching: With the presser foot now level over the bulk, you can just start stitching. This method effectively levels off your presser foot, allowing you to sew consistently across the thick layers.
This technique ensures that your presser foot maintains even pressure, allowing the feed dogs to properly grip and move the fabric, resulting in even stitches across the bulky area.
Essential Tips for Sewing Denim
Beyond leveling your presser foot, several other practices are crucial for successfully sewing over denim seams:
- Use the Right Needle:
- Denim Needles (Jeans Needles): These needles are specifically designed for thick fabrics. They have a stronger shaft and a very sharp, acute point that can penetrate dense weaves without bending or breaking. Sizes 90/14 or 100/16 are generally recommended for denim, with 110/18 for very heavy-duty denim.
- Universal Needles: Avoid using standard universal needles as they are prone to breaking or causing skipped stitches on thick denim.
- Adjust Stitch Length:
- Increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., from 2.5 to 3.0 or 3.5). Shorter stitches can pull and gather thick fabric, while longer stitches allow for better fabric feed and stronger seams.
- Use Strong Thread:
- Polyester All-Purpose Thread: A good quality polyester thread is strong and durable enough for most denim projects.
- Topstitching Thread: For decorative topstitching on denim, use a thicker topstitching thread (polyester or cotton blend). You might need a larger needle (e.g., 100/16 or 110/18) and to loosen your tension slightly.
- Consider a Walking Foot:
- A walking foot is an attachment that helps feed multiple layers of fabric evenly through the machine. It has its own set of feed dogs on top that work in conjunction with the machine's lower feed dogs, significantly reducing puckering and uneven feeding on bulky seams.
- Slow Down:
- Reduce your sewing speed when approaching and crossing denim seams. This gives you more control and allows the machine to work through the thickness without strain.
- Use a Hump Jumper or Seam Jumper:
- If your machine doesn't have the presser foot leveling button, a hump jumper (also known as a seam jumper or Jean-a-ma-jig) is a small, wedge-shaped tool that you place behind your needle to help your presser foot balance over bulky seams. It lifts the back of the foot, allowing the machine to stitch smoothly.
- Press Seams Open:
- Before sewing over a seam that joins other seams, press the underlying seams open or to one side to distribute the bulk as evenly as possible. A clapper can help flatten the seams effectively.
- Hammer Down Thick Seams:
- For extremely thick intersections, you can gently tap the seam with a rubber mallet or hammer to compress the fabric layers. Place a scrap of fabric or pressing cloth over the denim to protect it, and avoid direct hammering on metal parts like zippers or rivets.
Recommended Tools for Denim Sewing
| Tool Name | Purpose | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Denim Needles | Penetrating thick, dense denim fabric. | Prevents breakage, skipped stitches, ensures clean punctures. |
| Walking Foot | Evenly feeding multiple fabric layers. | Reduces puckering, ensures consistent stitch length over bulk. |
| Hump Jumper/Seam Jumper | Leveling the presser foot over bulky seams. | Provides stability, allows smooth stitching over varied heights. |
| Strong Polyester Thread | Durable stitching for high-wear areas. | Resists breakage, provides strong, lasting seams. |
| Rubber Mallet/Hammer | Compressing excessively thick seam allowances. | Flattens bulk, making it easier for the machine to stitch through. |
| Fabric Clips | Holding thick layers together (alternatives to pins that might bend). | Securely holds bulky fabric without distortion. |
By combining the presser foot leveling technique with the right tools and mindful sewing practices, you can confidently sew over even the bulkiest denim seams, achieving professional-looking and durable results.
