How to Sew Stretchy Fabric So the Seams Stretch?
When sewing stretchy fabric, the goal isn't typically to stretch the fabric itself during sewing, but rather to use a stitch that allows the seam to stretch with the fabric after it's sewn. This prevents the stitches from breaking when the fabric is pulled.
Sewing stretchy fabrics like knits requires a flexible stitch that can accommodate the fabric's elasticity. Using a standard straight stitch on stretchy material will result in seams that pop or break the first time the fabric is stretched.
Using the Right Stitch
To ensure your seams can stretch with the fabric, you should avoid using a straight stitch. Instead, the recommended approach is to use a stitch designed for stretch.
According to the reference:
- Use a stretch stitch if your sewing machine has one. This type of stitch is specifically designed with built-in elasticity.
- If a stretch stitch is not available, use a long and narrow zigzag stitch. The reference suggests specific settings for this: set your stitch length to the narrowest zigzag setting (0.5) and your stitch length to a medium setting. While the reference mentions "stitch length" twice, standard sewing machine settings usually refer to width for the zigzag setting (0.5) and length for how far forward the machine stitches. Interpreting the reference based on typical machine terminology, this likely means a very narrow zigzag width (0.5 mm) and a medium stitch length.
Why This Works
Both stretch stitches and zigzag stitches provide the necessary flexibility for seams on stretchy fabrics.
- Stretch stitches incorporate tiny movements or patterns that allow the thread to give when the fabric stretches.
- A zigzag stitch, especially a narrow one, works because the thread zigzags back and forth within the seam allowance, creating a small amount of slack that allows the seam to stretch without breaking the individual stitches.
Practical Tips for Sewing Stretchy Fabrics
Beyond choosing the correct stitch, a few other considerations can help you achieve great results when sewing stretchy materials:
- Use the Right Needle: Opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have a rounded tip that pushes the fabric fibers aside instead of piercing them, preventing runs or damage.
- Adjust Presser Foot Pressure: If your machine allows, slightly reduce the presser foot pressure. This helps prevent the fabric from stretching out as it's fed through the machine.
- Don't Stretch While Sewing: While your goal is a stretchy seam, avoid actively stretching the fabric as you sew, unless you are intentionally gathering or applying elastic. Let the machine feed the fabric naturally.
- Test on Scraps: Always test your stitch settings and tension on a scrap of the same fabric you are using for your project before sewing the actual seam.
By choosing the appropriate stitch and using these tips, you can create durable, flexible seams that move seamlessly with your stretchy garments.
