Sewing an elasticated hem creates a neat, gathered edge that is perfect for sleeves, waistbands, and garment cuffs, offering comfort and flexibility. The process involves preparing your fabric and elastic, choosing an appropriate method for incorporating the elastic, and then precisely sewing and finishing the hem.
An elasticated hem provides stretch and gather, essential for fitted yet comfortable garment openings. There are two primary methods for sewing an elasticated hem:
- Casing Method: A channel (casing) is created within the hem, and the elastic is threaded through it. This method keeps the elastic enclosed and offers a clean finish.
- Direct Stretch Method: The elastic is stretched and sewn directly onto the fabric, often using an overlocker or a stretch stitch on a sewing machine. This method is quicker and less bulky, commonly used for activewear or relaxed garments.
Essential Tools for Sewing an Elasticated Hem
To achieve a professional-looking elasticated hem, gathering the right tools beforehand is crucial.
| Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Sewing Machine | For stitching the hem. Ensure it has a stretch stitch option if using the direct method. |
| Elastic | Appropriate width and type (e.g., braided, knit, non-roll). |
| Fabric | Your garment piece requiring an elasticated hem. |
| Fabric Scissors | For precise cutting of fabric and elastic. |
| Pins or Clips | To secure fabric and elastic in place. |
| Measuring Tape | For accurate measurements of hem allowance and elastic length. |
| Fabric Marker/Chalk | For marking guidelines on your fabric. |
| Safety Pin or Bodkin | Essential for threading elastic through a casing. |
| Magnetic Guide | Recommended for ensuring equally spaced seams. |
| Iron and Ironing Board | For pressing seams and preparing the hem. |
Step-by-Step Guide: Sewing an Elasticated Hem
The general steps involve preparation, sewing, and finishing, with specific techniques depending on your chosen method.
1. Prepare Your Fabric and Elastic
- Determine Hem Allowance: Add the necessary hem allowance to your pattern piece. This typically includes enough for the elastic width plus seam allowance.
- Cut Elastic: Measure the circumference where the elasticated hem will sit (e.g., wrist, ankle, waist). Cut your elastic 1-3 inches (2.5-7.5 cm) shorter than this measurement, depending on your desired gather and stretch. Test a small piece first if unsure.
2. Choose Your Method
A. Casing Method
This method is ideal for a hidden elastic and a clean finish.
- Fold and Press: Fold the raw edge of your fabric towards the wrong side by a small amount (e.g., 1/4 inch or 0.6 cm) and press. Then, fold again by the required hem allowance (elastic width + previous fold) and press firmly. This creates your casing channel.
- Stitch the Casing: Stitch along the inner folded edge of the casing, leaving a 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) opening for inserting the elastic. As you sew, utilize a magnetic guide on your sewing machine to maintain an equally spaced seam, ensuring your casing is consistently wide and straight.
- Insert Elastic: Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end of your cut elastic. Thread the elastic through the casing, guiding it carefully until it emerges from the other side of the opening. Be careful not to twist the elastic inside the casing.
- Secure Ends and Close Opening: Overlap the two ends of the elastic by about 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) and securely stitch them together, forming a loop. Gently pull the elastic into the casing, distributing the gathers evenly. Finally, topstitch the opening closed.
B. Direct Stretch Method
This method is faster and less bulky, often used when the elastic is part of the design or for stretch fabrics.
- Mark Sections: Divide both the raw edge of your fabric and your elastic into quarters or eighths using pins or fabric markers.
- Pin Elastic: Align the marked points on your elastic with the corresponding marked points on the wrong side of your fabric's raw edge. Pin the elastic to the fabric at these points.
- Stretch and Stitch: Position your fabric and elastic under the presser foot. As you sew, stretch the elastic between each pinned section so that it matches the length of the fabric. Stitch the elastic to the fabric using a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. Again, a magnetic guide can be invaluable here to help you maintain a consistent seam allowance while stretching, ensuring your stitches are even along the hem.
3. The Sewing Process
Regardless of the method chosen, the act of sewing the hem requires attention to detail.
- Sewing Around the Hem: "Once you sew around the Hem," ensure your stitch type is appropriate for the fabric and elastic. For stretch fabrics or direct elastic attachment, a zigzag or stretch stitch is crucial to prevent popped stitches when the elastic is stretched. For casings, a straight stitch is generally fine.
- Achieving Even Seams with a Magnetic Guide: As highlighted in sewing techniques, a magnetic guide attached to your sewing machine is a simple yet effective tool. It ensures that "the seam is equally spaced," leading to a professional and consistent finish around the entire hem, whether you're stitching a casing or directly attaching elastic.
4. Finishing Touches
The final steps are essential for a beautiful and durable hem.
- Remove Basting Stitches: If you used any temporary "base stitches" (basting stitches) to hold the elastic or casing in place before the final stitching, carefully "remove base Stitch" now. This prevents them from showing and maintains a clean finish.
- Press for a Beautiful Hem: Once all stitching is complete, "press" your finished hem with an iron. This step is often overlooked but critical. Pressing helps to set the stitches, relax the fabric, smooth out any puckering, and give you a "beautiful hem" that looks professional and well-finished. Use a pressing cloth if your fabric is delicate or heat-sensitive.
Tips for Professional Results
- Needle and Thread Selection: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle for knit fabrics to prevent holes. Choose a good quality polyester all-purpose thread.
- Test Stitch: Always test your stitch settings (length, width) on a scrap piece of your fabric and elastic before sewing the actual garment.
- Even Tension: Ensure your sewing machine tension is balanced to avoid puckering or loose stitches.
