The exact answer is that you do not stretch fabric to stay stitch; instead, stay stitching is a crucial sewing technique designed specifically to prevent fabric edges from stretching and distorting.
Understanding Stay Stitching
Stay stitching is a line of permanent machine stitches sewn through a single layer of fabric, typically within the seam allowance (e.g., 1/8" to 1/4" from the raw edge). Its primary purpose is to stabilize bias-cut or curved edges that are prone to stretching out of shape during handling, pressing, and garment construction. By adding this row of stitches, the fabric's threads are held in place, maintaining the original shape of the pattern piece.
Key Principles of Stay Stitching
Rather than stretching the fabric, the goal is to gently guide it to keep its original shape. Here are some key principles and tips for effective stay stitching, incorporating insights from experts:
- Preventing Distortion: The fundamental rule is to avoid pulling or stretching the fabric as you sew. Allow the machine to feed the fabric smoothly.
- Stitching Placement:
- It is perfectly acceptable and common practice to stay stitch directly on the stitching line if preferred. As the reference states, "Some people do like to stay stitch directly on the stitching. Line which is totally fine you you do what you need to do." This provides stability right where the seam will eventually be formed.
- Alternatively, stay stitching is often placed just inside the seam line within the seam allowance, usually about 1/8" to 1/4" from the raw edge. This placement ensures the stay stitches won't show on the finished garment after the main seam is sewn.
- Direction of Stitching: For curved edges, such as necklines or armholes, it's vital to stitch in a direction that pulls the fabric in rather than pushing it out.
- "Another tip when stay stitching is to start on either end of the curve." This means for a curve that goes from point A to point B, you would stitch from A towards the center, and then from B towards the center, meeting in the middle. This technique helps to prevent stretching along the longest part of the curve.
- Stitch Length: Use a regular stitch length, typically 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Avoid very short stitches, as they can sometimes perforate delicate fabrics too much, or very long stitches, which don't provide adequate stability.
- Fabric Handling: Support the fabric as it feeds through the machine to prevent it from hanging and stretching under its own weight.
Common Areas for Stay Stitching
| Area | Why Stay Stitch? | How to Stitch |
|---|---|---|
| Necklines | Often on the bias, prone to stretching open. | Stitch from shoulder to center front/back, then from the other shoulder to the center, meeting in the middle. |
| Armholes | Curved and often on bias, can sag or gape. | Stitch from shoulder seam down to the underarm, then from the side seam up to the underarm, meeting there. |
| Curved Edges | Any curved edge that needs to maintain its shape. | Start on either end of the curve and stitch towards the center, as advised in the reference. |
| Waistbands | If cut on bias or with stretch, prevents expansion. | Stitch along the top edge of the skirt/pant, within the seam allowance. |
By applying stay stitching correctly, you ensure your fabric pieces retain their intended shape, leading to a professional and well-fitting final product.
