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What is French Stitching?

Published in Sewing Techniques 2 mins read

French stitching, also known as a French seam or a "right-left seam," is a seam finishing technique that encloses the raw edges of fabric within the seam itself, creating a clean and durable finish on the inside of the garment. It's particularly well-suited for lightweight fabrics like cotton, silk, and chiffon.

Here's a breakdown of how it works:

How French Stitching is Done:

  1. Wrong Sides Together, Small Seam Allowance: Place the fabric pieces wrong sides together (contrary to standard sewing) and sew a seam with a small seam allowance (e.g., 1/4 inch).
  2. Trim and Press: Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching line and press the seam open.
  3. Right Sides Together, Larger Seam Allowance: Turn the fabric so the right sides are together, encasing the first seam allowance inside. Press along the seam.
  4. Sew Again, Enclosing Raw Edges: Sew another seam, this time with a slightly larger seam allowance (e.g., 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch), ensuring that the raw edges of the first seam are completely enclosed within this second seam.
  5. Press: Press the finished French seam to one side.

Benefits of French Stitching:

  • Clean Finish: It hides raw edges, preventing fraying and creating a professional look on the inside of the garment.
  • Durable: It strengthens the seam, making it less likely to pull apart.
  • Suitable for Delicate Fabrics: It's ideal for lightweight and sheer fabrics where raw edges would be easily visible and prone to fraying.
  • Professional Look: Gives a high-quality finish to garments.

When to Use French Stitching:

  • Sheer or Lightweight Fabrics: Dresses, blouses, and lingerie made from fabrics like chiffon, silk, or voile.
  • Children's Clothing: Provides a comfortable and durable finish that won't irritate sensitive skin.
  • Unlined Garments: Keeps the inside of the garment neat and prevents fraying.
  • Projects Where Aesthetics Matter: Anytime a clean and professional finish is desired on the inside of a garment.

In summary, French stitching is a valuable seam finishing technique for achieving a clean, durable, and professional-looking finish, particularly on lightweight and delicate fabrics.

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