Mastering the art of ironing curved seams involves careful technique to shape the fabric smoothly, pressing around that curve and also pressing this way to set the stitches properly, often using a significant amount of steam.
Ironing, or more accurately, pressing, curved seams is crucial for achieving a professional finish in sewing projects. Unlike straight seams, curved seams involve shaping fabric that is inherently straight. Pressing helps to mold the fabric to the intended curve, preventing puckering and ensuring the garment or project lies flat and smooth.
Step-by-Step Guide to Pressing Curved Seams
Here’s a breakdown of the process, incorporating techniques essential for managing curves:
1. Prepare Your Work Area
- Flat, stable surface: Ensure your ironing board is sturdy and covered.
- Pressing tools: Have your iron ready, ideally one that produces much steam. Tools like a pressing ham or tailor's sausage can be invaluable for supporting curves.
2. Press from the Wrong Side First
Begin by pressing the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.
- Place the seam allowance flat.
- Use the tip of the iron to carefully press around that curve, following the stitch line without ironing over the seam itself initially.
- Apply heat and steam. The video reference highlights using much steam during this process, which helps relax the fabric fibers, making them more pliable for shaping.
3. Press the Seam Allowance Open or to One Side
Depending on your pattern instructions, you will either press the seam allowance open or to one side.
- Pressing Open:
- Carefully open the seam allowance with your fingers.
- Using the tip of the iron, press this way along the stitch line, setting the seam open. Work in small sections, following the curve. A pressing ham can support the curve underneath the seam.
- Pressing to One Side:
- Gently sweep the seam allowance to one side as directed.
- Press this way along the seam line, setting the seam allowance flat against the fabric. Again, follow the curve closely, working in small sections.
4. Press from the Right Side (Optional but Recommended)
Once the seam is pressed from the wrong side, you may choose to give it a final press from the right side.
- Place the seam flat on your ironing board or pressing ham.
- Using a press cloth (especially on delicate or textured fabrics), gently press along the curved seam line.
- Use steam to help set the shape. Avoid back-and-forth ironing motions; lift and press to prevent distorting the curve.
5. Clipping or Notching Seam Allowances
Curved seams often require the seam allowance to be clipped or notched to lie flat.
- Concave Curves (curving inward, like an armhole): Clip V-shaped notches from the edge of the seam allowance up to (but not through) the stitch line.
- Convex Curves (curving outward, like a neckline): Clip straight lines up to (but not through) the stitch line.
Perform clipping/notching after stitching but before the final pressing. This allows the seam allowance to spread or contract, helping the curve lie smoothly when pressed.
Tips for Success
- Use a Pressing Ham: This curved cushion is ideal for pressing shaped areas like bust darts, princess seams, and curved seams, allowing the fabric to maintain its natural curve while being pressed.
- Lots of Steam: As shown in the reference, steam is your friend! It makes the fabric pliable, aiding in shaping.
- Press, Don't Iron: Use an up-and-down motion rather than sliding the iron back and forth, which can stretch and distort the curve.
- Work in Sections: Tackling the curve piece by piece allows for more precise shaping.
- Let it Cool: Allow the fabric to cool and the press to set before moving the piece.
By pressing around that curve and then pressing this way with much steam, you effectively set the stitches and shape the fabric, transforming a potentially difficult seam into a smooth, professional curve.
