Your skin might be getting darker after using niacinamide due to a few reasons, most commonly related to irritation or improper product combinations.
Here's a breakdown:
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Irritation and Inflammation: Niacinamide, while generally well-tolerated, can sometimes cause irritation, especially at higher concentrations. This irritation can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which manifests as darkening of the skin.
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Mixing with Incompatible Ingredients: Using niacinamide with other potent actives, particularly strong acids, can increase the risk of irritation. Harsh combinations disrupt the skin barrier and lead to inflammation and subsequent darkening.
Ingredient to Avoid (with Niacinamide) Reason for Avoidance Potential Result Lactic Acid Increased Irritation Redness, dryness, hyperpigmentation (darkening) Glycolic Acid Increased Irritation Redness, dryness, hyperpigmentation (darkening) Azelaic Acid Increased Irritation (for some skin types) Redness, dryness, hyperpigmentation (darkening) -
Concentration of Niacinamide: High concentrations of niacinamide (above 5%) are more likely to cause irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing it as tolerated is recommended.
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Other Products Contributing to Irritation: Consider whether other products in your skincare routine might be contributing to irritation. Over-exfoliation, harsh cleansers, or fragrances can all compromise the skin barrier and increase sensitivity to niacinamide.
What to do:
- Stop using niacinamide immediately if you notice significant darkening.
- Simplify your skincare routine. Focus on gentle cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection.
- Consult a dermatologist. They can properly assess the cause of the darkening and recommend appropriate treatment options.
- Reintroduce Niacinamide Carefully (if desired): If you want to try niacinamide again, choose a low concentration (2-5%) and introduce it slowly, monitoring your skin for any adverse reactions. Don't mix it with potentially irritating ingredients.
- Wear Sunscreen: Always wear broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to protect your skin from further darkening.
