Drafting a skirt involves creating a custom pattern based on your measurements. While the provided references offer only a few steps in the process, we can expand on this information to outline a basic skirt drafting procedure. The references mention picking a basic skirt pattern, but this answer focuses on drafting from scratch.
Here's a breakdown of how you can draft a simple skirt pattern:
Basic Skirt Drafting Steps
The process includes taking measurements and constructing the pattern on paper.
1. Taking Measurements
- Waist: Measure around your natural waistline.
- Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips.
- Skirt Length: Measure from your waist to where you want the hem of the skirt to fall.
2. Creating the Basic Pattern Shape
This is where the reference information comes into play, and we can expand upon it:
- Reference Point: Using a long ruler, draw a long horizontal line on a piece of tracing paper. This becomes your baseline. (Reference 2)
- Waistline Points: On the horizontal line, mark points B and C. The distance between these points will relate to your waist measurement plus ease. More on this calculation later. (Reference 3)
- Perpendicular Lines: With a pencil, draw two perpendicular lines from points B and C. These lines will extend upwards and downwards, forming the side seams of your skirt pattern. (Reference 4)
- Determine Waistline Length: Divide your waist measurement by 2. Add some ease (typically 1-2 inches). Divide this total length by 2 again. This gives you the length of the waistline for the front and back pattern pieces. The reference also states "Measure the waist on the FRONT and BACK pattern piece." (Reference 1). While we are drafting, this concept highlights that the waist measurement of the drafted pattern should match your body measurements plus ease.
- Hip Line: Measure down from the waistline (the distance is usually between 7-9 inches, but measure on yourself to confirm). Draw a horizontal line across the pattern, perpendicular to the side seam lines.
- Hip Width: Divide your hip measurement by 2. Add some ease (1-2 inches). Divide this total length by 2 again. This gives you the length of the hipline for the front and back pattern pieces.
- Connect Waist to Hip: Connect the waistline points to the hipline points with a smooth curve or a slightly angled line (depending on the desired skirt shape).
- Skirt Length: Measure down from the hipline to the desired skirt length. Draw a horizontal line to form the hemline.
3. Adding Darts (Optional)
Darts provide shaping and allow the skirt to contour to the body.
- Dart Placement: Determine the placement of your darts. Typically, darts are placed on the front and back pattern pieces, originating from the waistline and extending downwards towards the hip.
- Dart Width: The width of the dart legs determines how much fabric will be taken in. A larger dart creates a more defined curve.
- Dart Length: Dart length varies depending on body shape and design.
4. Refining the Pattern
- Seam Allowance: Add seam allowance (typically 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch) around the entire pattern.
- Hem Allowance: Add a hem allowance (typically 1-2 inches) at the hemline.
- Labeling: Label the pattern pieces (front, back), indicate the grainline, and mark any relevant details like dart placements.
5. Cutting and Sewing
- Cut Fabric: Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric.
- Sew Darts: Sew the darts.
- Sew Seams: Sew the side seams.
- Attach Waistband: Attach a waistband (if desired).
- Hem: Hem the skirt.
Example
Let's say you have the following measurements:
- Waist: 30 inches
- Hips: 40 inches
- Skirt Length: 24 inches
Calculations:
- Waistline (with 2 inches ease): (30 + 2) / 2 = 16 inches. Front and back pattern waistline length: 16/2 = 8 inches each.
- Hipline (with 2 inches ease): (40 + 2) / 2 = 21 inches. Front and back pattern hipline length: 21/2 = 10.5 inches each.
You would then use these measurements when creating your pattern as described in Step 2.
