When buttoned, a suit jacket should fit close to the body without pulling, with the button ideally sitting at the trim as part of the waist, creating a flattering silhouette.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
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Close to the body, but not tight: The jacket should gently hug your torso, avoiding any excessive fabric billowing or pulling across the chest or stomach.
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No pulling or strain: If you see the fabric around the button straining or creating an "X" shape, the jacket is too tight.
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Button at the waist: The button (or top button, in the case of a two-button jacket) should sit naturally at or slightly above your natural waistline. This helps to create a defined and flattering shape.
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Comfort: You should be able to move comfortably, raise your arms, and sit down without feeling constricted or causing the jacket to pull excessively.
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Silhouette: When buttoned, the jacket should create a subtle hourglass shape, emphasizing the difference between your chest and waist.
In essence, a well-fitted suit jacket should be comfortable and allow for movement, while still maintaining a sleek and flattering appearance when buttoned.