Wearing a cardigan with a suit is primarily done as an alternative to a traditional waistcoat (or vest), creating a smart and put-together layered look suitable for various occasions, especially in cooler weather.
Cardigan as a Waistcoat Replacement
According to reference #6, wearing a cardigan with a suit and tie achieves the same visual effect as wearing a three-piece suit, where the cardigan takes the place of the waistcoat. This is highlighted as an excellent look for fall and winter. A key benefit noted is that "you can take your jacket off at any time, and you still look extremely put together."
The Look
To achieve this style effectively, the cardigan should be worn under the suit jacket and over your dress shirt and tie. It functions as the middle layer, much like a waistcoat.
Choosing the Right Cardigan
Not all cardigans are suitable for this pairing. The key is selecting one that complements the formality of the suit and fits properly under the jacket without bunching.
Here are some considerations:
- Style: Opt for fine-gauge or medium-gauge knit cardigans. Chunky or thick knits will be too bulky under a suit jacket. A simple button-front style is most common.
- Fit: The cardigan should fit snugly but comfortably. It should not be too tight, which would restrict movement, or too loose, which would create bulk. The sleeves should not extend past the suit jacket sleeves.
- Material: Materials like merino wool, cashmere, or fine cotton knits work best. They offer warmth without excessive weight and drape well.
- Color: Consider classic, versatile colors such as navy, charcoal grey, black, or deep burgundy. These can be paired with a variety of suit colors. The cardigan color can either match the suit for a cohesive look or provide a subtle contrast.
Styling Tips
- Shirt and Tie: Wear a crisp dress shirt and a tie. The tie should be tucked neatly behind the cardigan when buttoned, similar to how you would wear it with a waistcoat.
- Buttoning: Typically, button the cardigan up, leaving the bottom button undone, similar to waistcoat etiquette. You may choose to button all but the top or bottom button depending on personal preference and the cardigan's design, but keeping it entirely unbuttoned under a suit jacket generally defeats the purpose of the waistcoat replacement look.
- Layering: Ensure the cardigan layers smoothly over your shirt and under your suit jacket. There should be no pulling or creasing.
- Occasion: This look strikes a balance between formal and relaxed. It's well-suited for business casual environments, smart social gatherings, or even a slightly less formal take on traditional business attire during colder months.
Suit & Cardigan Pairing Examples
| Suit Color | Cardigan Color | Shirt Color | Tie Suggestion | Occasion Suitability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Navy | Grey, Burgundy, Navy | White, Light Blue | Contrasting or complementary pattern | Business Casual, Smart Social |
| Charcoal Grey | Black, Navy, Grey | White, Pink | Texture or subtle pattern | Business Casual, Smart Social |
| Black | Black, Dark Grey | White | Solid or tone-on-tone pattern | Evening, Semi-Formal (less common) |
By following these guidelines, you can successfully integrate a cardigan into your suit ensemble, creating a stylish and practical layered look that offers the polished appearance of a three-piece suit with the added benefit of easy layering adjustment.
