In the surf zone, water movement is primarily driven by breaking waves, leading to patterns of flow that include onshore transport and currents moving along and away from the shoreline.
Based on the provided reference, here is how water moves in the surf zone:
- Onshore Movement: Breaking waves push water towards the shore.
- Wave Setup: This onshore push creates patterns of wave setup, which essentially means the average water level is slightly higher near the shore.
- Longshore Feeder Currents: The wave setup drives longshore “feeder currents”. These currents flow along the shoreline.
- Convergence and Seaward Flow: The longshore feeder currents converge (come together) at certain points. Where they converge, the water then turns and flows seaward (away from the shore).
- Rip Current Formation: This concentrated seaward flow forms a narrow, fast-moving current known as a rip-neck.
Summary of Water Flow in the Surf Zone (as per reference):
- Water moves onshore due to breaking waves.
- This creates wave setup.
- Wave setup drives longshore feeder currents flowing along the coast.
- These currents converge.
- The converging water flows seaward, forming a rip-neck.
This pattern describes the general circulation related to the formation of rip currents within the surf zone, starting with the initial onshore push from waves and progressing to the offshore return flow.
