Using a chainsaw on small trees involves making a directional notch cut, followed by a back cut from the opposite side, ensuring you leave a hinge to control the fall direction.
Safety First
Before starting any work with a chainsaw, especially felling trees, safety is paramount. Even small trees can cause serious injury.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate gear, including:
- Chainsaw helmet with face shield and ear protection.
- Cut-resistant chaps or pants.
- Heavy-duty work gloves.
- Steel-toed boots with ankle support.
- Clear the Area: Ensure your work zone and escape route are clear of obstacles (brush, rocks, other people, animals).
The Felling Process for Small Trees
Felling a small tree with a chainsaw typically involves making two main cuts: the notch and the back cut.
Step 1: Plan the Fall Direction
Carefully assess the tree's natural lean, wind conditions, surrounding obstacles, and the desired felling direction. Your notch cut will be made on the side facing the planned direction of fall. Identify and clear at least two escape routes away from the base of the tree at a 45-degree angle to the planned fall path.
Step 2: Make the Notch Cut (Undercut)
The notch cut is made on the side of the tree that faces the direction you want it to fall. For small trees, a standard open-face notch (two cuts creating a roughly 70-degree opening) or a traditional notch (a horizontal cut and a sloping cut meeting) can be used. The notch should typically penetrate about one-fifth to one-third of the tree's diameter. The notch's purpose is to guide the tree's fall.
Step 3: Make the Felling Cut (Back Cut)
The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. This cut releases the tree from the stump, allowing it to fall in the direction guided by the notch and controlled by the hinge.
According to one reference: "For smaller trees, you can simply cut from the back toward your notch cut, leaving one inch for the hinge."
This hinge is the section of uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts like a hinge on a door, guiding the tree down safely. The thickness of this hinge is critical – leaving about one inch for small trees helps maintain control. Cutting through the hinge removes control and is extremely dangerous.
Step 4: Use Felling Wedges (As Needed)
Sometimes, a tree might start to sit back on the saw or lean slightly in the wrong direction during the back cut.
As the reference states: "As you make this cut, stick your felling wedges into the felling cut to ensure the tree doesn't sit back and cause your chainsaw to get stuck."
Felling wedges are hammered into the back cut behind the saw to help lift the tree slightly and prevent the saw bar from getting pinched (or 'stuck'). This is particularly useful if the tree leans back slightly or is heavier on one side.
Step 5: Control the Fall & Retreat
As you near the hinge with your back cut, the tree should begin to fall. Watch the top of the tree carefully. Once it starts to move, immediately stop cutting, remove the saw safely, and retreat quickly along your planned escape route, keeping an eye on the falling tree.
Key Cuts Explained
Understanding the role of each cut is vital for safe felling.
Cut Name | Purpose | Location |
---|---|---|
Notch Cut | Directs the fall of the tree | On the side of desired fall |
Back Cut | Releases the tree from the stump | Opposite the notch |
Hinge | Controls the tree's fall like a pivot | Section left between cuts |
Practical Tips for Small Trees
- Sharp Chain: A sharp chain cuts efficiently and reduces the chance of pinching or kickback.
- Proper Stance: Maintain a balanced stance with good footing.
- Observe the Tree: Pay attention to how the tree is reacting as you cut. If it starts pinching the saw, use wedges.
- Don't Force It: Let the saw do the work. Forcing the saw can lead to loss of control.
By following these steps and safety guidelines, using a chainsaw on small trees can be done effectively and safely. Always prioritize safety and consider consulting a professional if unsure.