askvity

How are Jewels Used in Watches?

Published in Watch Bearings 4 mins read

Here is the exact answer to the question "How are jewels used in watches?".

Jewels in watches are primarily used as bearings within the watch movement to significantly reduce friction between moving parts, thereby protecting them from wear and tear.


Jewels play a crucial role in the intricate mechanics of a traditional watch. Far from being purely decorative gems, these small components are essential functional elements that contribute directly to the watch's accuracy, longevity, and reliability.

The Primary Function: Bearings

The core purpose of jewels in a watch movement is detailed in watchmaking principles: They are mainly used as bearings in a watch movement to reduce the friction between a watch's mechanical components protecting them from getting worn out.

Think of a watch movement as a complex miniature machine with numerous wheels and gears constantly rotating and interacting. Where two metal parts pivot against each other, friction naturally occurs. Over time, this friction would cause the metal to wear down, leading to inaccuracies and eventual failure of the watch.

Jewels, typically made from synthetic sapphire or ruby (both forms of corundum, a very hard material), provide an extremely hard, smooth surface for these pivots to turn against. This dramatically lowers the coefficient of friction compared to metal-on-metal contact.

Why Friction Reduction is Critical

Reducing friction offers several vital benefits for a watch:

  • Minimizing Wear: Less friction means less abrasion on the delicate metal pivots and bearing surfaces. This prevents parts from wearing down, which would alter their dimensions and affect the timing of the watch.
  • Improving Accuracy: Lower friction requires less energy to drive the movement. This allows the balance wheel, the timekeeping heart of the watch, to swing more consistently and with a larger amplitude, leading to better timekeeping stability and accuracy.
  • Increasing Power Reserve: With less energy lost to friction, more power remains in the mainspring to drive the watch for a longer period before needing to be wound again.
  • Extending Lifespan: By protecting critical components from wear, jewels significantly extend the operational life of the watch movement.

Where Are Jewels Located?

Jewels are strategically placed at points in the movement where friction is highest or where precise operation is most critical. These locations typically include:

  • Balance Wheel Pivots: These are perhaps the most important jeweled bearings, supporting the delicate pivots of the balance wheel, which oscillates thousands of times per hour.
  • Escape Wheel and Pallet Fork: Jewels are used as pallet stones on the pallet fork and as bearings for the escape wheel, crucial components in the escapement mechanism that regulates the flow of power and creates the ticking sound.
  • Gear Train Bearings: Jewels are used as bearings for the pivots of the gears in the gear train, which transmits power from the mainspring to the escapement.

Here is a simplified look at common jewel types and locations:

Jewel Type Location Function
Hole Jewels Supporting gear/wheel pivots Act as bushings for rotational movement
Cap Jewels Covering hole jewels (e.g., balance) Reduce friction on the end of the pivot
Pallet Stones Pallet Fork Interact with the escape wheel teeth
Roller Jewel Balance Wheel Interacts with the pallet fork

The Myth of High Jewel Counts

Historically, a higher jewel count was often marketed as a sign of a superior watch. While placing jewels at critical friction points is essential, adding excessive jewels where they provide no functional benefit (e.g., decorative plates, manual winding mechanisms) does not improve performance. Modern watch standards dictate the minimum number of functional jewels required for a quality movement. A standard mechanical watch typically has between 15 and 25 jewels, with complications adding more functional requirements.

In essence, jewels in watches are not just decorative; they are vital engineering components that act as low-friction bearings, enabling the intricate mechanics to function smoothly, accurately, and reliably for decades.

Related Articles