Setting stones, such as diamonds or other gemstones, into a watch involves a meticulous process primarily handled by a skilled gem-setter.
The fundamental method involves preparing the watch surface and securing the stones using the surrounding metal.
The Process of Setting Stones
Based on expert techniques, the process begins with precise preparation of the watch component where stones will be placed.
Step 1: Preparing the Surface
First, the gem-setter creates holes in the watch surface. This could be on the:
- Dial
- Case
- Bracelet
Step 2: Creating Uniform Holes
Crucially, these holes must meet specific standards to ensure a flawless result:
- Perfectly uniform in size: Each hole must match the size of the stone it will hold precisely.
- Uniform depth: The depth of each hole must be consistent to ensure stones sit at the same level.
- Perfectly aligned: Holes need to be perfectly positioned relative to each other, especially when setting multiple stones side-by-side, to create straight lines or specific patterns.
This uniformity allows equally sized stones to be set seamlessly alongside one another, creating a visually appealing arrangement.
Step 3: Securing the Stones
Once the holes are prepared and the stones are placed within them, the gem-setter uses the metal from the surface surrounding each hole to secure the stone firmly in place. This often involves carefully pushing or folding the metal edges over the stone's girdle (the widest part).
This method, often called 'pave' or 'bead' setting depending on how the metal is manipulated, relies on the metal itself to form a secure hold, making the stones appear to cover the surface with minimal visible metal.
Key Aspects of Watch Stone Setting
- Precision: The process demands extreme precision in measuring, drilling, and securing.
- Skill: It requires significant skill and experience from the gem-setter.
- Material: The surrounding metal (gold, platinum, stainless steel, etc.) is integral to holding the stones.
By meticulously preparing uniform, aligned holes and using the watch's own material to secure each stone, gem-setters create the stunning, stone-covered surfaces seen on many luxury timepieces.
