The speed of a water wave is primarily determined by inherent forces like gravity and surface tension, along with characteristics dependent on the specific environment, such as the depth of the water and the wavelength of the waves.
According to the provided reference (06-May-2019), the speed of water waves is influenced by several key factors:
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Inherent Planet Factors: These are fundamental forces constant to the planet.
- Gravity: This is a primary force driving larger waves. Gravity acts to restore the water surface to equilibrium after it's disturbed, influencing how quickly waves propagate.
- Surface Tension: This force is more significant for very small waves (ripples). It's the tendency of liquid surfaces to shrink into the minimum surface area possible, also contributing to restoring equilibrium.
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Environmental Factors: These factors relate to the physical conditions where the waves exist.
- Depth of the Water: Water depth plays a crucial role. In deep water (where depth is greater than half the wavelength), speed depends mainly on wavelength. In shallow water (where depth is less than about 1/20th of the wavelength), speed depends mainly on depth.
- Wavelength of the Waves: Wavelength, the distance between successive crests or troughs, directly impacts wave speed, particularly in deeper water. The reference notes that wavelength is itself determined by other factors like depth and wind speed, highlighting the interconnectedness of these elements.
Understanding these factors helps explain why wave behavior varies significantly from small ripples on a pond to large ocean swells.
