The wavelength of a wave in deeper water changes by getting longer.
As ocean waves move from shallow water into deeper water, or vice versa, their characteristics change. One of the fundamental principles governing wave behavior is that the frequency of the wave (how many wave crests pass a point per second) typically remains constant.
According to the provided reference:
Because the speed of the wave changes (it speeds up as the water gets deeper), this means that the wavelength must also change (it gets longer as the water gets deeper), to keep the frequency the same.
This relationship can be understood through the basic wave equation:
Wave Speed = Frequency × Wavelength
When waves move into deeper water:
- The wave speed increases.
- The frequency stays the same.
- Therefore, the wavelength must increase proportionally to maintain the equation.
Summary of Changes:
| Characteristic | In Deeper Water | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Speed | Increases | Water depth allows less bottom interaction. |
| Frequency | Stays the same | Determined by the source of the wave. |
| Wavelength | Increases | To compensate for increased speed. |
This change in wavelength is a key aspect of how waves transform as they travel across varying ocean depths.
